How to Buy the Bicycle Meant for You

Most of us grow up owning and riding bicycles that are barely suit our needs. The beat up 10-speed hand-me-down worked fine for the paper route, back when paper routes were actually delivered by bicycle. And that tiny BMX bike was fine for a 14-year-old willing to pedal forever just to get 2 blocks. But maybe you're getting serious (or semi-serious) about riding a bike that actually fits your frame and isn't so much work that you never feel like taking it out of the garage.

Some of us get bit rather badly by the biking bug. In my case it happened when my brother-in-law bequeathed his old steel-frame trek racing bike to me because he was selling off his more serious bikes and wanted to clean out his basement. I fixed that bike up with a new seat (to protect my vitals) clip pedals (to make riding more efficient) and double tape on the handlebars (because the bike shop told me it would help my numb hands.)

I spent way more fixing that bike than I probably should have. By the time I'd purchased bike shorts, a real cycling shirt, helmet and shoes, money felt like it was flying out the door.

But it was all worth it. I rode more because it felt better. Two years into riding I purchased a mountain bike. Our family had not been able to get away for a vacation so I invested $600 in what they call a "hardtail" mountain bike, which simply means it has springs in the front (for cushioning) and no springs in the back. Hence the "hard tail" description.

Last year I came into a little money and invested in a carbon-frame road bike with really great components. "Component" is the biking term for things like the chain and gears. Everything that isn't part of the frame or wheels (all of which you can buy separately, and many bikers do) is basically called a "component." These are the bits and pieces that make the bike go...and stop. Brakes, handlebars, shifting levers, chain...all of these things can be upgraded from the original equipment you buy on a bike.

All this is important information to know before you think about going to a bike store to look at bikes. You see, bike stores have one purpose in this world: To sell you a bike. They don't make a lot of money on each bike, so they have to sell a lot of bikes, or else they have to sell you a lot of stuff that go with or on the bikes to make up the difference. Think of it like a meal at a fast food restaurant. Most fast food joints make their highest margins on the soda they dispense rather than the food you buy. The parallel in bicycle shops is all the stuff you need (or want) to go riding beside the bike. Helmets, shorts, lights, etc. And there are bike shops and bike companies that are pretty smart about how they package their equipment so that eventually you will want to "buy up," instead of stick with original equipment.

For example, suppose you buy a bike with a really nice frame, but then a crappy seat comes with the original equipment. Well, guess what? Your butt connects with that seat and no amount of high-tech carbon or steel is going to save your butt (and other things) from aching if your seat is no good. When I bought my carbon frame bicycle last summer I was amazed by its performance and speed, but after the first ride my genitals went numb! That is not a sensation I was looking to maintain, so I took the bike back to the shop and upgraded the seat. I'm pretty sure the bike manufacturer knew this seat wasn't the greatest. And so did the bike shop. But that's how it all works. It is definitely a seller's market in that respect.

The other thing you need to know about buying bikes is that there is virtually no secondary market where you'll get anywhere near what you paid new for a bike even if you have never ridden the thing. Like a new car, bikes lose a bunch of value once you ride them off the lot. But there are ways to sell your old bike or one you don't want through online sites that specialize (or generalize) in selling stuff you don't want. But whether you're the seller or the buyer, you have to know a lot about the item to sell or purchase something on line.

Besides, if you're buying a bike for your own use, going to a bike shop and trying it out is absolutely crucial unless you're an absolute expert who knows that a 54cm frame is an exact fit for your 32-inseam. Experienced cyclists know all that stuff. But it takes years (trust me) to accrue all that knowledge.

So to find the right bike shop, one you can trust to help you, is an important thing. The first and most important question you should ask when you walk in the door is this: "Do you have someone on site who fits bikes?"

The reason this is the most important (and only) question with which you should begin searching for a bike is that buying a bike that is not fitted to your size, height and limb-length is like walking up to a rack of clothes and choosing the first dress or suit you see without looking at the size. If you are a size 8, for example, and you choose a size 4 dress, it will not fit. Same goes for a guy who is a 42 long in suit size. A 46 short will look terrible. In bike sizes it's not just appearance you're concerned about, but comfort and safety. I say if there is no bike-fitter on the premises, walk out the door or come back when that gal or guy is working. Tell them you want a bike fitted to your frame.

If that sounds finicky or anal, well, here's some good advice: It's vital that your bike fits or you will pay between $300 to $3000 for a machine that is of no use to you.

But if your bike fits, it almost doesn't matter how much it costs. What does it mean to have a bike "fitted" to you? Most bike fitters assess your key dimensions such as leg length, torso height and width of shoulders, all to set you up with proper seat height, frame size, lift and breadth of handlebars, etc. Some bike fitters use devices to measure the angle of your knee when sitting on the seat, or use plumb lines and measuring tapes to get you set up properly. There are differing philosophies on styles of riding, etc., but generally if you get some sort of bike fit done you're way ahead of where you would be if nothing at all was measured. Again, some bike shops have better fit specialists than others. This is where you find someone else who rides and ask around: Who has the best reputation for getting you into equipment and fitting you with a bike. Fortunately, today's bicycles are so good, even the cheap ones (down to $150) are way better than bicycles ever were just 5 years ago. Call it the NASCAR principle. All the technology that goes into champion cycling (think of Lance Armstrong) has trickled down to regular cycling equipment. Even the bike manufacturers admit that their lowest technical bikes of today were basically top of the line 5 years ago. Bikes have dropped in price like personal computers, which now seemingly run forever, or at least until they're obsolete.

So you can walk into a bike store knowing there's something really good in there for you. The other great thing about cycling these days is that bike manufacturers and the people who run the bike companies have gone literally insane making bikes that are comfortable, practical and affordable. All these "upright" bikes make riding easy even for people with bad backs, cranky knees and tender butts. For $300 you can get in and out of a bike shop with bike, helmet and probably a free water bottle, and do it all under an hour.

There are basically five to six types of bikes you need to know about before you buy.

There are road bikes: These look like racing machines. There are several styles and frame types within this category, and a good bike shop will help you learn the difference (and benefits) between carbon frames, steel, aluminum and other variegations. Learn all you can in your first visit about components. Take notes and then come back after looking up road bikes online. Type in model names and read reviews. You'll quickly learn where you fall in terms of frame types, etc. for your riding. Are you going to race (Really?) oo for weekend warrior rides or just ride for fitness. All these factors determine what you buy. Think it through. Then go ask questions.

There are cyclocross bikes: These are like road bikes for combination road, trail and offroad riding. They're still fast, and have knobby tires, but look like road bikes.

There are hybrid bikes: These are for people who want to ride a few miles, mostly on bike trails or roads. These are the ultimate "social" but serious fitness machines. The seats are comfortable, as are the handlebar grips, pedals, etc. Everything engineered for buzzing along.

There are mountain bikes: Within this category is a series of sub-categories. What it all comes down to is springs and shock absorbers. if you're not going to be roaring downhills, but do want to ride off road and have traction to boot, then a mountain bike is your ticket. They're harder to ride on bike trails because of the fat tires and tread, but you can still have fun. I ride mine all winter for fitness, even during light snows.

There are true comfort bikes: These are like hybrids, but even further engineered to make riding like a walk through the park.

For kids and thrill freaks, there are stunt and BMX bikes. These tricked out, stubby-framed machines are for kids and adults who like banging around bike parks and showing off. I still can't believe kids ride these for any distance, but they do.

Those are the general categories you need to know. But never forget the first question to ask when going in to buy a bike: "Is there someone here who can fit me to a bike," or something along those lines. You'll never regret asking the question. Your butt, legs and brain will thank you too.