How to Buy Great Clothes at Thrift Stores

Thrift stores aren't all the same. Some still fit the old dusty, dim, and overcrowded image, and these usually accept anything that isn't obviously dirty and damaged. At high-end stores, staff go over each garment closely; even so, flaws may be overlooked. It's up to you to be a careful shopper.

It only takes a few seconds for a first impression. If a garment looks new, or nearly new, and well cared for, it's time for a thorough inspection.

Make sure that all the buttons are there and that zippers are in good working condition. Lightweight nylon zippers are more likely to have separated or become bent out of shape than metal ones. Quality garments sometimes have an extra button sewn into a seam. Look for one if a garment you like has a button missing.

Check the trims. Signs of too much wear are: faux jewels that are dull and scratched, color peeling off fake pearls, glued-on trims coming loose, torn lace. Reject anything with sewn-on sequins that have dropped off because of broken threads.

Children's clothes and men's trousers are the most likely to have stains. Inside pockets and trouser crotches can be especially nasty. Check necklines for dirt and grime, and underarms for sweat and deodorant stains. Food and ink-stains aren't likely to wash out.

Fading may be obvious unless it's even all over the exposed parts of the garment. Check areas less exposed to light, like underarms or inside seams to see if they're darker. Sometimes there is a difference in color between the front and the back of the garment.

Tiny holes may be hard to find, but small holes get bigger very quickly. Find holes and thinning spots in the fabric by holding the garment up to the light, rotating it slowly, looking through just one layer.

On knitted clothing, particularly sweaters, look for pilling, thin areas, and breaks in the yarn. Sleeve ends often show pilling, fraying, and discoloration.

Look for broken stitches in the hems of skirts and dresses, the cuffs of pants, and sleeve and side seams. Bagging (stretched out areas) in the back of skirts and pants is a sign of heavy wear or poor quality fabric.

What if you've found the perfect item with just one minor problem? If you can sew on a button or stitch up a seam, you may be able to get a price break. Show the sales person what's wrong, and ask for a price adjustment. Unless the garment is on consignment, the store would probably be just as happy to get rid of it at a slightly smaller profit.

There's a lot to remember, but once you've gone home with your first amazing bargain, you'll be on the path to becoming a seasoned thrift store shopper.