Having surfed in Hawaii for many years I can say from experience that I have learned many survival tactics in and out of the water. First off I recommend finding a surf break that suits your ability. If you are a beginner you have no business attempting the more crowded popular spots. Find a spot where the kids surf. Seriously swallow your pride and surf on the shore break if you are not experienced enough to handle true Hawaiian surf.
When I first moved to Hawaii I surfed my entire first winter on shore break that was sometimes double over head. When I would attempt to paddle out I didn't have the skills to make it out in the bigger surf. When I did make it out the waves were so huge that I would wait for a small one and ride it back to shore. The second year I was able to get out in moderate surf conditions. Mostly because I developed the skills to make it out in larger surf.
If you want to have a positive surf experience anywhere in the world its always a good idea to respect the beaches and the people that live there. Look around at the different beaches before you go running to the water with your surfboard. Some of the beaches you will find friendly helpful locals that do not mind sharing their surf break. Other spots you will be unwelcome, stay away from those spots where you may be looked at as a target.
Come to Hawaii with a positive attitude, be gracious and use common sense. Try to figure out when the surf break that you are wanting to surf is not as crowded. Maybe early in the morning or mid afternoon would be a better time for you to surf if you are not used to surfing in Hawaii. Try to come mentally and physical prepared to experience some of the most powerful waves of your life. Learn all you can about the local conditions, in and out of the water.
Published by Rik Rodriguez
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