How to Create a Compound Archery Bow from a PVC Pipe
This Compound Bow is Simple and Cheap to Make, Looks Professional when Finished, and Works Wonderfully.
If you'd like to make a compound bow but don't want to spend the time or don't have resources to construct a construction-intensive compound, this tutorial is for you. What we'll create here is a bow constructed from wood and PVC piping. This may sound like an odd combination, but I assure you the end result is satisfying both visually and functionally.
The time required to make this bow will depend on you, but for anyone who even a small amount of experience, this project should take no longer than a weekend. The materials are cheap and minimal, as are the tools required. This bow would make an excellent beginner project for a child who wants a classy compound but lacks the advanced skills needed for more traditional methods.
To get started, purchase or locate the following materials:
(1) 1 ¼" PVC pipe 6ft. long
(2) PVC end caps, 1 ¼"
(2) Eye-bolts and nuts
(1) Spool of cord (25 - 50lbs pressure)
(1) 2 x 4 wood, approx. 12" long
(2) 4"L x ¼"W bolts and nuts
(2) Washers
Optional Materials:
(1) 1" PVC pipe 6ft. long (optional)
(1) Spray paint
(1) Wood stain
Tools Needed:
Drill
¼" Drill bit
Tape Measure
Jigsaw
Sand paper (power sander optional)
Rasp
Hack saw
Work bench
Clamps
Wood sealant
Step 1: You'll need a PVC pipe approx. 6ft. in length, shorter for children. The pipe will be 1 ¼" in diameter, so the poundage will not be that high - somewhere in the thirty range. If you need it to be stronger, slide the optional 1" diameter 6' PVC pipe inside of the larger one.
Cut the PVC pipe[s] exactly in half with the hacksaw so you have two 3' pieces of pipe.
Step 2: Draw a template over on one side of the 2 x 4 - this will be the handle. The handle can be as complicated or basic as you would like the only requirement is the top and bottom 2" remains flat.
Using the rasp and sandpaper, shape and smooth out the rough-cut design until it makes a rounded handle comfortable to hold.
Once it is shaped, stain it whatever color you would like and seal it. Set it in a dry and warm area to dry overnight while you work on the rest of the bow.
Step 3: Boil a pot of water and hold one end of each PVC pipe in the boiling water. I highly suggest doing this outside on a grill, as PVC is known to cause liver cancer when heated and the fumes inhaled. Warming it in water helps reduce the risk, but doing so outside will ensure that you'll be relatively safe.
After the end is heated a great deal and you can bend the end of the plastic simply by pushing it on the bottom of the pan, remove it from the water and quickly press the bottom two inches completely flat using a rolling pin on a smooth location. Now dip it in cold water to cool it off so that it doesn't bend.
Repeat with one end of the other pipe.
Step 4: At this point, you need to spray paint the PVC pipes whatever color you would like. If you do choose to paint them, they will need to dry overnight. Also, paint the end caps what ever color and let them dry also.
Step 5: It should be the next day now. Everything should be dry and ready to go.
Using the drill and ¼" drill bit, drill a hole directly through the center of the flat part of the PVC pipe. Now, drill a hole directly through the center of the front of the top two inches of the wood handle.
Place the end of the PVC pipe over the flat part of the handle and insert the regular bolt with the head facing forward. On the other end, slip on a washer and then screw the nut on tightly. Using the hacksaw, remove any extra screw and sand it smooth with a dremel, if you have one.
Repeat with the other end.
Step 6: Your bow should look fairly good now - assuming you paint the limbs a complementary color to the wood, it should look like a fancy bow.
Taking the end caps, drill a hole in the top center of each one. Place the eye-bolts into them so the loop part is sticking out the top. Put a nut on the bottom and screw it on tightly.
Step 7: Now you'll need to attach the end caps. Place PVC glue on the top ½" of the PVC pipe, place the end cap over the pipe and tap it down gently with a wrapped hammer as to not dent the plastic or chip the paint.
Wait for them to cement on completely before continuing.
Step 8: Using the cord you bought, and assuming your bow is 6ft. long, cut a length of string approx. 4.5 ft. long. Tie a small loop at one end. Place the loop through one of the eye bolts and place the other end of the string through the loop, pulling tightly to secure it in place.
Now, tie a loop on the other end of the string. Bend the bow and place that loop over the other eye bolt. Wrap the loop back under the front of the bolt so when you let tension on it, it will pull snuggly tight.
Step 9: The bow should work perfectly as a bow now. Get an arrow and take it for a test shoot.
Published by Blair Mathis
Blair is a fulltime freelance writer who specializes in travel and technology writing. Having worked for both private and corporate clients, Blair has experience working to meet a wide range of requirements... View profile
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10 Comments
Post a Commentpicture of you using it? The eyebolts coming out of the top won't provide the bowstring a true path- it will flip and flop with use, making accuracy impossible. The builder wouldn't automatically know what strength of PVC to use, furniture grade, schedule 40, 80, etc. The DIY employees aren't trained in bowmaking, so they wouldn't know either. With work, it could be a nice target practice bow for backyard use. It wouldn't be allowed in competition (it couldn't be called a compound bow), or even be remotely considered legal for hunting. As this design stands, I wouldn't try a full pull even without an arrow.
I just read this for the first time. I agree with some of the commentators, that this is in fact a longbow and not a compound. Compounds have pulleys that increase the poundage (pulling force) so the archer doesn't have to have arms like a Welsh bowman or Popeye the sailor. The size of the eyebolts isn't given, as is the size of the washer or cap nuts, so I'm assuming that 3 feet of PVC pipe is bolted to a single point of wood with only a 1/4" bolt. The type of wood is NOT irrelevant as some soft woods are cheap, and will shatter with repeated use. The bolt could pull out and snap into an archer's face, causing horrific injury. As a teenager, a commercial longbow made from fiberglass broke during a competition and sent me to the hospital. Fortunately, I was okay.
I think on the outside that this is an idea with potential, but it truly needs work. Have you indeed built and used this bow? Do you have a picture of it you could put on the site? How about a picture of
Me again. I found a piece of 1" PVC pipe in my garage about 5-1/2" long. It has pretty good bending and tension power, just by bending the entire pipe. In my oppinion the forces are too great to cut it in half and attach with one or two bolts only within a couple of inches at the inner ends. 6' is also too long for a bow. However, just to use a 4' pipe and attach the endcaps and strap some string on it might prove to be a decent bow. It could give a good 40-50 lbs tension. This is with a 1" pipe. And the idea of cutting it in half and attaching to a piece of 2x4...well...I personally think it won't work. The forces in the joint area are just too big for a piece of PVC and wood to hold up.
Here's another idea: We have an entire 12" 2x4 piece, and we'd only probably need about 5" for a nice handle. So, we could drill a 1-1/4" hole into the top and bottom, up to 3" deep, to fit the pipe into. Then, one bolt would be enough straight through the center of the pipe and through the wooden piece, maybe about the middle of the depth of the hole. And to reinforce it even more, we could glue the pipe into the wooden handle part with epoxy glue. This would make for a much sturdier composite bow. At about 6-1/2' long.
have fun!
I would like to see a picture if anyone has actually built it. There seem to be some inconsistency. The description calls for 2x4" bolts and each arm is bolted on with only one bolt, but then Blair replies that each is held with two. If there is only 2" of flat area there is not much to put two bolts through and hold it safely. They'd be too close together and it could still cause pivoting of the arms. Also, there is no mention abut how far the pipe should be flattened. If we decided to use the double pipe option (with the 1" pipe inside), wouldn't that make it somewhat more difficult to flatten?
I would almost not even cut the pipes in half, but just build a wooden handle to fit onto the middle of it. If even just wrap the area with tape, glued rope,etc. By cutting a pipe in half it reduces the spring factor of it. also, if we flatten on end, the joint area where the roundness ends and flatness begins is weakened and could cause the bow to colaps.
Have you actually done this?
por favor alguna imagen
You're right about the compound/composite, that was incorrectly written. Since they are screwed with two screws in each end, pivoting is impossible. The grade of the PVC will be entirely dependent on the user, they will know what kind they can manage to pull when they go to buy it. The type of wood for riser (handle) is likewise irrelevant, since it's only a handle - users' choice.
I am afraid that you are mistaken about it being a compound bow. It is a composite bow as it has no pulleys or levers that allow it to have any kind of mechanical advantage over hooks constant. Other than that it seems like this could be a nice looking bow, though you don't mention the schedule of the PVC(wall thickness). And the type of wood isn't specified either, oak, maple, pine, fir, cedar, etc. And if the arms only join in one spot where they bolt to the wood then there is a possibility of them pivoting during a draw, causing the bow to collapse and possibly hurt the archer. Other than that, good read.
How about a picture? This is hard to visualize.