First, pick your clay. Since this project is hand-built, that is not using a pottery wheel, I prefer using earthenware clay with grog. Earthenware means that the clay is not designed to be fired to high temperatures. High firing is not necessary since high temperatures are only necessary when making your work waterproof for such work as mugs, jugs, and plates. Grog is a grainy material added to hand-building clay to give it more structure. Although kiln curing clay makes much sturdier and long-lasting pieces, even air dry clay can be used in the method described below. Clay can be obtained at many art/craft stores such as Hobby Lobby and most large cities have at least one ceramics dealer. Check your phone directory.
Next, take a baseball sized chunk of clay and wedge it. To wedge clay is to work it on a table much like kneading bread. This will warm the clay, expel any air bubbles and get the clay ready to work with. Now, take two wooden spoons or dowel rods and lay them beside the wedged clay. The wooden spoon handles act as a thickness gauge when rolling out your clay. Next, take a rolling pin and position it so that the either side of the pin rests on the wooden spoon handles. Roll out your clay into a slab being sure to keep your rolling pin on the spoon handles so you have a consistent thickness across the slab.
Now that you have a nice slab, you're ready to select the perfect leaf. Take a quick walk around your yard and select several leaves the size and variety you would like. Make sure the leaves are whole, without insect bites or holes. Trim the stem from your leaves and place them face up on your clay slab. Arrange your leaves close together but with a small amount of space between them, much like cutting out sugar cookies. Now, take your rolling pin and gently roll over your leaves impressing them into the slab.
Next, it is time to cut. Using a small paring knife, trim around each leaf. The closer you follow the actual outline of the leaf, the more realistic your piece will look. After trimming your leaves, they will be a bit rough around the edges. Dip your finger in water and gently smooth out the edges around your leaf where the knife left rough spots. Finally, it is time to shape. No natural leaf is totally flat. Realistic leaves have life to them. To capture this life, lift each leaf gently from your table and softly bend and curl areas and ends. Don't overdo it though. Take a hint from nature. Look out a window at a close-by tree for inspiration on how much bending is necessary.
After you are satisfied, allow your leaves to dry. If you are using a kiln cured clay, bisque fire your bone dry leaves to cone 04. Don't worry about the actual leaf. It will burn off in the kiln. If you are using air dry clay, gently peal the leaf from your piece and then follow the package instructions to be sure your clay leaves are as hard as possible before finishing them. Which brings me to the final step, finishing. Finishing your leaves can also be a creative process. I often coat them in a layer of wax then buff them to a semi-gloss finish. If you are looking for more color though, a layer of cone 06 glaze will do the trick or even a quick coat of spray paint. When you have finished your leaves, the only thing left to do is to hot glue a picture hanger on the back and hang them up or wrap them as gifts.
Published by Brian Harmon
I am an art teacher in the public school system. I am father of an awesome baby. I'm very concerned with healthy foods and raising a health consious child. Overall, I have a passion for art, music, health... View profile
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1 Comments
Post a CommentI use to love doing ceramics in art class when I took drawing and painting for 3 years fun stuff. Please thank your wife for recommending you to me to read.