In planning your backsplash there are several things to consider.
1. Start by deciding whether you want to use tin or aluminum. Since the backsplash is used in an environment with splashed water, the aluminum panels have some benefits since they do not rust. On the other hand they aren't as resistant to dents as heavier gauge tin might be. Typically manufacturers will only produce either tin or aluminum panels, but not both. Copper panels are also made but much more expensive.
2. Depending on the company you purchase them from they will be 24" x 24" or 18" x 24" in size. Since the space between the kitchen counter and the bottom of the overhead cabinet is most often on the order of 18" using the 18" high panel leads to the least cutting and scrap. Measure the area to be covered and determine the number of panels required. If you are going to order online you will want to order an extra panel or two since most online sources have a minimum charge for shipping so you don't want to have to place two orders.
3. Look at the patterns offered by the dealers. Usually for the confined spaces of backsplashes you'll want the stamped pattern to have a repeat on the order of 6".
4. Decide whether you want to purchase panels that are precoated or if you will be painting them yourself. Here cost and the final type of finish you want should be taken into account. Preapplied coatings typically are baked on paint or surface treated metallic colors/finishes.
5. Select a dealer that has the panel that meets the criteria you have established. In some areas it's difficult to find a local store handling these panels or they may require special orders. In cases like this a number of manufacturers have an online presence with photos of installed backsplashes, installation hints, photos of patterns and other features. While you have to pay for shipping there often is no sales tax. The unpainted panels are the lowest cost option and provide the greatest flexibility in coming up with your own signature design. The most effort in working with uncoated panels is preparing and painting them.
The steps below are applicable to aluminum panels and will lead to a durable finish. If you prefer to work with precoated panels the following five steps can be skipped.
1. The uncoated panels have what is called a mill finish. This must be thoroughly cleaned and oxidized. An effective way of doing this is to soak them for several minutes in a lye solution or until bubbles are seen coming off the panels for several minutes. This can be prepared by carefully dissolving readily available crystal drain cleaner containing lye. Safety goggles and rubber gloves should be worn. A plastic basement utility sink, plastic wheelbarrow or plastic barrel can be used for the soaking step. Rinse with water and dry.
2. Next apply a coat of aluminum primer with either a paintbrush or roller. It is not necessary to coat the side that will go towards the wall but there is no problem if you want to.
3. Once the primer is thoroughly dry apply several coats of satin base paint. We use latex due to it's easy cleanup. Depending on the depth of the embossing you can use either a brush or roller.
4. Now let your creativity run wild. In the example shown in the photos a cranberry satin latex base paint was used. A small amount was brushed on to a painting pad and the pad was blotted on some paper towels. This was rapidly 'stamped' on the panels to achieve an aged look. Since the panels have not been installed at this stage this step went quickly once the technique was developed. Fortunately with latex you can quickly wash off the paint if you have a false start.
5. The last step is to apply several coats of clear polyurethane or acrylic either by spray can or brush.
The next stage is the cutting, and application of the panels.
1. Using your layout and ruler mark the starting point and cut the first panel both for the height (if necessary) and any outlets, switches, or features that may exist in the area that panel will cover. Tin snips with pointed blades were used. Heavy gloves prevent accidental cuts.
2. Hold the cut panel in place and once you have determined it's cut correctly apply the mastic on the back. While you can use an adhesive such as Liquid Nails, we found the Acrylpro Tile Adhesive worked best. It's easy to spread on the panels with the goal of buttering the panel so that the stamped indentations are filled thus providing dent resistance as well as adhesion
3. Hold the coated panel against the wall and when correctly positioned drive some small decorative brads (brass colored brads provide a nice accent) in the corners to hold the panel in place while it drys.
4. Cut the next panel in a similar fashion. Note there will be an overlap channel of about 3/8" to help position and lock the panels together. Coat the back of this panel with adhesive, run a bead of clear caulk in this channel and apply to the wall with brads in the same fashion as the first panel. Continue this process until all panels are in place.
5. Now run a bead of clear caulk where the counter meets the panels and let that dry.
6. As a finishing touch in some applications you may want to add a strip of wood trim at the start of each row of panels. By setting up an 'assembly line' approach to coating and applying the panels in your kitchen you will find the job moves along quickly once you have coated panels to work with. To save even more time it also should be possible to create a unique design starting with panels that have the base coat already applied by the manufacturer and then applying a creative decorative touch yourself. Using 'tin' ceiling type panels for a kitchen backsplash provides a unique, decorative result with a minimum of effort and at a reasonable price.
Published by Dr. Ed Warde
Ten years on the Space Science Research Faculty at a major university followed by 20 plus years at a biotech systems company managing R&D at various levels. Now retired and consulting with startup companies... View profile
- DIY Copper Kitchen Counter TopsCopper Kitchen Counter Tops are the easiest way to create dramatic metallic look on the kitchen counter tops in your home.
- Faux Painted Stainless Steel Kitchen Counter TopsFaux Painted Stainless Steel Kitchen Counter Tops Are the easiest way to create dramatic and updated look on the kitchen counter tops in your home for less than $100.
- Easy Kitchen Counter CompostingProduct review of several kitchen composting devices and some easy composting tips for kitchen counter.
- DIY Faux Marble Kitchen Counter TopsMarble Kitchen Counter Tops are an expensive luxury that most of us just cannot afford. If you have existing Kitchen Counter Tops though, you can easily paint your own faux marble Kitchen Counter Tops that will fool e...
- Budget Kitchen Counter Updates: Vintage Key Mosaic Kitchen Counter TopsLooking for an easy and vintage look for updating your kitchen countertops? Check out these mosaic vintage key counter tops.
- Do it Yourself: How to Install Tin Ceiling Panels
- Rustic River Stone Mosaic Kitchen Counter Tops DIY Project
- Scrabble Game Pieces Mosaic Kitchen Counter Tops
- How to Remove Grape Juice Stains from the Kitchen Counter Naturally
- Subway Tile Kitchen Counter Tops
- Blue Willow Ware Mosaic Kitchen Counter Tops
- DIY Project: Painted Vintage Tin Kitchen Counter Remodel
- Cost, layout, pattern and final finish should all be decided before ordering panels.
- Preapplied coatings require the least effort but are generally more costly.
- You can create a very unique backsplash that will stand out in your kitchen.




9 Comments
Post a CommentLow ceilings can be a challenge. I don't really have any specific suggestions for you. You can Google 'dealing with low ceilings' and perhaps find some suggestions from the sites listed in that search.
I have very low celings, 6' 6" my cabinets come right up to the celing. Is there a trick to get some height in my room?
Thanks so much. I suspected but did not know that liquid nails would ruin the drywall. Nail holes are easy to fix.
Susi135-Liquid Nails would be very hard to remove from most any surface such as drywall, tile or formica. It would pull the paper off the drywall when you went to remove it. Assuming you are putting it over drywall I would use brads and also use clear silicone caulk only in the ceiling panel grooves where they overlap so the panels will adhere together. The panels are very lightweight so using brads should be enough to hold them on as long as the panels are fastened together with the clear caulk in the edge grooves.
I am planning to use celing tiles as a backsplash in a rented apartment. Will Liquid Nails damage the walls if the tiles are removed? Wlll just brads hole the on?
I used what is known as 'mill finish' aluminum panels for the backsplash described in this article.. Panels with this finish should be painted since they will oxidize with time and grow dull. I don't think you would be happy with them if you were looking for a stainless steel type finish. The company I purchased the panels from has a variety of different clear coatings which may be more suitable. I suggest you go to www.mbossinc.com/ and look under backspash panels in their products section. If you see something you like email them, tell them what you are trying to accomplish and ask specific questions. If several panel finishes look promising I believe you can order samples. Also check out: http://www.armstrong.com/resclgam/na/ceilings/en/us/prod_detail.asp?itemId=105406 and http://americantinceilings.com/backsplash-silver.html
I'm looking for ideas in installing new backsplash for our kitchen. I saw this modern design at http://www.bathroomandkitchenguide.com/Kitchen-Tiles-Splashbacks/10-modern-splashback-ideas.html, but seems to be expensive. Will aluminum be as nice and shiny live the stainless steel?
I cut out a hole in the backsplash panel that is at least the size of the electrical box. Since the panel is fastened to the wall and won't slide I don't feel it's anymore likely of shorting then using a metal electrical box would be. I shut off the electricity to the wall outlets while installing the panels. Using a 'gasket' of electrical tape folded over the edge would provide additional insuurance however. Good point. Thanks!
what about the danger of the electrical components arcing to the aluminum backsplash? shouldn't there be an insulator ring?