How to Determine the Quality of a Makeup Brush

It is an oddity that we women will spend countless dollars on our cosmetics, and use any old thing lying around in our drawers to apply them, not really knowing any different. Purchasing a makeup brush is almost as mysterious as buying carpet, in my opinion. Knowing that you can't rely on price to determine quality, how do you know if you're getting your money's worth? One brush (or carpet sample) may feel nicer to the touch, but does that mean it will hold up over time? Does it mean it's of higher quality? Doing some simple searches across the internet did not yield any articles explaining the different types of brushes hairs, and which type ranks higher over which, so I've put together my own primer for those of us who are trying to get the best bang for our buck.

A well constructed brush that is maintained properly can last you over 10 years. Now think about how many cheapo dime-store brushes you buy over the same period of time - you've ended up spending far more on the throwaways! Furthermore, using the correct brush for your application made of quality materials will make your application more even and easier to apply. When purchasing makeup brushes, buy ones that are handmade, as the hair tips can only be preserved when the brushes are made by hand and not machine.

The construction of a makeup brush can be divided into 3 major parts: the hair, handle, and ferrule (the metal part that attaches the hair to the handle). The hair type is the focus of this article, as it is the biggest and most important component, as well as the most "mysterious". Brush hair types are broken down into 3 categories: natural hair, natural bristle, & synthetic hair.

Natural hair brushes are the best type of brushes as they can deliver and apply makeup more effectively, as they trap and hold the powders the best. When pressure is applied from the brush against your skin, they release these powder trappings (foundation, blush, eye shadow, etc). Synthetic hair (nylon or taklon) is not absorbent and does not trap powders, making it more suitable for concealer brushes, eyeliner brushes, or liquid foundation. Natural haired brushes will get softer with each use over time, and are most appropriate for powder brushes, foundation brushes, eye shadow, and blush brushes. Conversely, synthetic brushes will get stiffer with each use. For powder applications, the softer, the better.

Both hair type and cut will determine the quality and softness. First cut hairs are the highest qualityand are cruelty-free. The tips of the hairs on first cut or virgin cut bristles are soft and pointed, while second or blunt cut hairs are just that: flat across. Think of how soft the hair on your forearms is compared to the hair on your legs as the stubble grows back after shaving, and you'll get the idea. So now we've determined 2 factors you want to look for in a brush, no matter the price range:handmade, first cut hairs.

Here is a list of types of animal hairs commonly used in cosmetic brushes:

Kolinsky Sable - Kolinsky is an animal found in the coldest regions of Russia and China, and is a mink species. Kolinsky brushes are the finest, softest, and most expensive brushes.

Badger Hair - Badger can come in different forms, making for differing quality and uses. Badger "tapers" are conical in shape, and have more elasticity, making them springier and softer on your face. A high quality badger hair brush will have a variegated appearance: light-dark-light. Badger gray hairs are less tapered, less elastic, less soft, and less expensive. These brushes are really more suitable as barber's brushes!

Squirrel Hair - Squirrel hair is extremely soft, and is the most popular with makeup artists. Only long squirrel hair is considered to be valuable, as the hair ends in a very fine point. These must be handmade to preserve the tips.

Pony Hair - Pony hair makeup brushes are less expensive than squirrel hair while still providing good quality. They are soft, but have less pointy/fine tips than the kolinsky sable or squirrel brushes.

Goat Hair - is the most commonly used hair type in a mid-range price point, and have the widest range of quality. The softest goat hair is the first cut, where the tips are still intact and soft. Sometimes the first cut goat hair may be referred to as a "squirrel substitute".

Mass produced brushes are most likely made of blunt cut goat hair, and are not of significant quality or softness.

Now that you're armed with the makeup brush basics and hopefully feel more confident about purchasing cosmetic brushes, make sure you take care of your brushes to make them last for years and years. Wash them frequently. Brushes used for foundation, setting powders, or blushes should be washed once a week. Eye shadow, eye liner, and lip brushes should be washed after every use. Wash them with a clairifying shampoo or a quality cosmetic brush cleaner, wipe dry, reshape, and lay flat until they're completely dry. For Kabuki brushes, or flat topped brushes, stand them on end to dry to prevent the water from loosening the glue that holds the hairs in the ferrule. Brushes should be stored either loosely standing on end (handled end, that is), or in a case that can separate the brushes so that the hairs are not squished.