How to Make Fabric Pelmets

Give your windows a distinctive and professional finish with fabric pelmets which add style to your curtain headings and are both simple and cost effective to make at home.

Fabric pelmets are horizontal bands of stiffened fabric secured to a special shelf above a widow. They serve two functions. The first is decorative: a beautifully shaped and finished pelmet enhances the look of windows. The second function is practical: the pelmet conceals the curtain track and heading and can alter the proportions of the window. If fixed higher than the window, a pelmet can make the window appear taller; if extended at the sides, it can make the window look wider.

The pelmet design you choose will depend on the style and shape of the windows, the type of room you have, and on the kind of fabric you have chosen for the curtains. Pelmets can be completely plain, the simplest is rectangular, or they can be shaped in any pretty or decorated fashion you choose.

Often the curtain fabric will dictate the shape of the pelmet edge: striped, checked or geometric curtain fabrics suggest straight, regular shaping like zigzags or castellations, while floral curtains work well with curves or scallops. Sometimes the design on the fabric gives you an attractive shape to follow.

Most furnishing fabrics, except very open weaves and sheers, are suitable for making the pelmet. Use the same fabric as the curtain, or choose a contrasting patter, perhaps in a color to complement the other furnishings in the room. With patterned fabrics, remember to allow enough fabric to center the design on the pelmet.

Traditionally pelmets have been backed with buckram, a heavy, woven interfacing. A modern self-adhesive fabric stiffener like Pelform that is especially designed for backing pelmets makes the job easier but can be more costly than buckram. Look for both types in the soft furnishing departments of large stores.

When using fabrics with very directional patterns on wide windows, it may be necessary to join fabric widths. Do this before cutting out the shape. Use a full fabric width at the center and position the narrower panels to each side. Press the seams open.

Avoid joining buckram, if using it, as the joins will form ridges and reduce the strength of the pelmet.

To make a fabric pelmet you will need:

• Paper for template
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• Buckram or self-adhesive stiffener
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• Fabric and lining
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• Interlining or iron-on interfacing to interline buckram
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• Tape measure
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• Scissors
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• Pins, sharp needle, thread and thimble
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• Iron and ironing board
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• Decorative braid and fabric adhesive
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• Velcro or curtain rings and screws.

MAKING A PELMET SHELF

When positioning the shelf, remember that the top edge of the pelmet is fixed to the shelf and forms the upper boundary of the window area. Take into account the height and depth of the pelmet in relation to the window and to the height of the ceiling, bearing in mind that the pelmet must cover the track.

If you pelmet is very wide or deep, you will need to add rectangular end pieces to the shelf for rigidity. For example, if the shelf is 4 inches (10cm) deep, nail a 4 inch (10cm) square piece of plywood at right angles to each end of the shelf.

HANGING THE PELMET

For ease of cleaning, hang a removable pelmet by sticking the hooked half of a Velcro strip along the edge of the pelmet shelf and attaching the other half of the Velcro to the wrong side of the pelmet. Or sew curtain rings to the back of the pelmet at regular intervals, and hook them over screws fixed to the shelf.

USING BUCKRAM

Buckram requires more hand stitching that self-adhesive stiffener, and you will have to make your own pattern before you start. However, the end result has a softer look than one made with self-adhesive stiffener, and it should last longer because it can be cleaned.

The pelmet should be an eighth to a sixth of the length of the window. Standard depths are 12-16 inches (30-40cm) at the deepest points. It must hide the track even at the highest points.

MAKING A PATTERN

1. Measuring up: Measuring the length of the shelf plus returns) short side ends). Cut a strip of paper this length by the required depth. Fold it in half to mark the center and crease it to mark the position of the corners.

2. Drawing the shaped edge: Open out the paper and draw the shape of the edge on to it. Work from the center outwards, making sure repeated shapes are the same size and evenly spaced. The returns can be shaped or plain.

3. Cutting the shape: Keep the paper folded while cutting out so that the shape will be symmetrical. Tape the pattern to the pelmet shelf to check the effect and adjust the outline if necessary.

MAKING A BUCKRAM PELMET

1. Cutting out: Using the pattern as a guide, cut out one pelmet shape from buckram. Cut one pelmet piece from the main fabric, adding 1 inch (2.5cm) to the outer edges. Cut out iron-on interfacing adding ½ inch (1.2cm) to outer edges. Cut out lining adding 3/8 inch (1cm) to outer edges.

2. Attaching iron-on interfacing or interlining: Press iron-on interfacing centrally to wrong side of fabric. Pin interlining centrally to fabric and work rows of lockstitch 10 inches (25cm) apart along the pelmet

3. Attaching buckram: Buckram is stiff to handle, so it is wise to use a strong, sharp needle and thimble to protect your finger. Place buckram centrally on top of interfacing. Pin and tack through all layers. Clip into the fabric turnings at curves and corners, and trim away excess. Dampen the edges of the buckram and press the fabric turnings into place. For extra security, slipstitch the turned fabric to the buckram

4. Adding trimmings: Stitch or glue any trimmings of braid or fringing to the pelmet at this stage.

5. Adding lining: Turn in 3/8 inch (1cm) to wrong side of lining. Clip and trim as necessary at curves, tack and press. If you are hanging the pelmet with Velcro, stitch the soft half of the strip along the top edge of right side of lining at this stage. Position the lining, right side up, on top of the buckram. Pin and slipstitch all round, catching lining to the seam allowance of the main pelmet fabric. If using curtain rings, hand stitch in place as this stage. Then hang the pelmet.

Self-adhesive stiffeners have a peel-off backing paper printed with either a pelmet shape or a grid which enable you to draw up your own design. They come in two forms. Single-sided stiffener has a self-adhesive front and the back is coated with velour which makes lining unnecessary. It comes in 12 inch (30cm) and 16 inch (40cm) widths. Double-sided stiffener has adhesive on both sides. It down need lining but gives a more professional finish. It comes in 12 inch (30cm), 16 inch (40cm) and 24 inch (60cm) widths.

USING PRE-PRINTED DESIGNS

Pre-printed self-adhesive stiffeners offer a choice of designs. Simple, select the one that you want and cut it out, first centering the design on the width of the pelmet.

1. Measure up: Measure the pelmet shelf, plus the returns. With the design on the self-adhesive stiffener centered, mark the required length and returns. Check the design looks good from the front; you may need to reshape the patter along the returns. Cut to length, and then cut along the lower edge following the pattern lines.

2. Cutting fabric and lining: Press the fabric, then position the stiffener to the wrong side. For patterned fabrics ensure the pattern is centered. Using chalk, draw around the stiffener. Cut out adding 1 inch (2.5cm) seam allowance all round. With a directional fabric, if necessary join widths before cutting out the pelmet shape.

3. Applying stiffener: Starting at the center of the strip of stiffener, lift and then cut through the center of the backing. Peel back part of the backing then, using the chalk outline as a guide, position it adhesive side down to the wrong side of the fabric. Smooth the exposed adhesive surface to the fabric, making sure there are no wrinkles. Peel away the rest of the backing a little at a time smoothing the adhesive down on to the fabric as you do so.

FINISHING THE EDGES

Single sided self-adhesive stiffeners

Snip into seams to within 1/8 inch (3mm) of stiffener and turn edges over to wrong side. Glue in place. Alternatively, trim excess fabric close to the edge of the self-adhesive stiffener and stitch or glue braid along lower edge to finish. Attach Velcro or hooks as required.

Double sided self-adhesive stiffeners

If using Velcro, sew the soft half to the right side of the lining 1 inch (2.5cm) from the top edge. Press a 5/8 inch (1.5cm) turning to wrong side all round. With wrong sides together, smooth the lining on to the adhesive surface from the center out and slipstitch lining to fabric. If using curtain rings, sew them at regular intervals round the top edge.