How to Find the Right Load for Best Accuracy on the Rifle Range

In this article, I will tell you about my technique in finding the right load for the best accuracy that will work for any rifle. I do all my own reloading of ammunition. I started several years ago after growing up helping my dad with his reloading for many years. I know exactly what I'm shooting out of my rifles and know that I can depend on the ammunition because I made them.

When searching for the right load, there are several factors to consider. The first is understanding that every rifle shoots differently than the next. What works for one my not work for another, even if it's the same model and caliber of rifle. I have had a Remington 700 bolt action 30-06 since I was about 11 years old. Until about five years ago, I had the original stock attached, until I decided that it was time I try to improve on my accuracy. In doing so, I started with modifications to the rifle itself. I designed a completely new stock, and carved it out by hand using a Dremel and a wood rasp. I made it out of three pieces of laminated Oak, which added about 3 pounds to it's original weight. The stock is thicker in width than the original, and designed to include a pistol grip with finger grooves, and a wedge taken out of the butt so that when laying prone, I have a place to pull the rifle into my shoulder with my non-shooting hand. Also, On the business end of the stock, I added a hump to the bottom side for the bipod to attach to. The other thing I did before painting, was to "free float" the barrel, so that no part of the barrel was touching the stock, accept for the lugs to secure it to the stock. I then glassed the area where the screw holes came through the stock to give it a secure base. I added the most padded butt plate I could get me hands on. That, in addition to the added weight of the stock, absorbs much of the recoil, as I shoot with some pretty maxed out loads.

The next step was to consider trying a new bullet. I shot the Hornady 180 grain bullets since I was a kid, and through trial and error, found that the Hornady 150 grain bullet had better accuracy out of my rifle. There are countless brands and types of gun powders on the market, but there are usually only a handful of powders listed in the reloaders handbook that have been tested. Those are the powders you want to work with. Also, for any given type, there is a low end value of powder that you should use, as well as a high end value. To put it simply, if you don't use enough powder, you could build up excessive pressure and blow up your rifle. The same goes for if you use too much powder. So, it is wise to stay somewhere between the high and low values. Be sure that you're using the correct chart for the bullet type and weight.

I like to make sure I have "like" brass. In other words, I group up brass from the same manufacturer. When reloading, I make sure that when the cartridges are trimmed, and then I match up ones that have equal length. The last thing I'll do, is weigh each individual bullet. You may be shooting with 150 grain bullets, but sometimes you'll find them to weigh 150.2 grains, or 150.6 grains. I match those all up too by tenths of a grain.

All these steps are used so that I can eliminate all possible variables. Especially when finding the "sweet spot" for a new rifle.

Now that everything is matched up and separated, it's time to start loading cartridges.

I load up one group of six cartridges starting at the lowest acceptable amount of powder. Let's assume your powder range is 50.0 grains on the low side, and 60.0 grains on the high side for your 30-06 with a 150 grain bullet. Load up six rounds at 50.0 grains. Next, I'll load up another six rounds at 52.0 grains, and so on up to 60.0 grains of powder. I found that IMR 4895 works the best for me. If I have two bullet weights I want to try, I'll start another set the same way. If I have 180 grain bullets, I'll do the same thing from whatever the low end may be, on up to the high end. Make sure that your using six bullets that weight the same by tenths of a grain. After each set of six is finished, I'll stop and roll them in a piece of paper, and write in the load information so that I can keep good notes at the range.

Now it's time to go to the shooting range. Start out with the first group of six. Take your time and fire the six rounds out, then walk to your target with a ruler and measure your group from the center point of the outer most impacts. Take notes! Paste up the holes and move on to the next set, and repeat the same process until all sets are fired. You'll notice the groups get smaller and or bigger through the different loads your shooting. Chose the loads with the two smallest groups. Let's say 56.0 grains, and 58.0 grains had the best groups. When you get back to your reloading bench, work between those two. Separate your brass and bullets again as you did the first time. Now reload more sets, only this time start at 56.2 grains, and work up at 2/10 grain increments up to 57.8 grains. When you get back to the range and shoot those up, you'll be able to pinpoint which load gives you the best accuracy, or the smallest shot group. Now try the next bullet weight, and start the process all over again. When you find the best group with that bullet, compare the best result of one bullet weight to the best result of the other. Whichever is the smallest shot group is the load and bullet you want to use.

In my case, I shoot a 150 grain Hornady boat tail bullet, with 59.8 grains of IMR 4895 powder. After the long process, and lots of notes, I am happy with the rifle being a real tack driver! All the work has paid off! I bought an AR-10 (.308) a couple years ago and did the same thing with that. At 100 yards, I have my groups at 3/4 of an inch!!!

I hope this will give you a new idea to try. Good luck, and happy shooting!