How to Grow Azaleas

There is not a more beautiful sight in spring than a large group of well-tended azaleas in full bloom. If you've ever visited the Azalea trail in Tyler, Texas, you might have come home and wished that you could enjoy these southern beauties in your yard. Information about the Azalea Trail can be obtained from the Tyler visitors' bureau at 800-235-5712.

You can, but it takes a little work and you must have the right conditions, which unfortunately don't naturally exist where soil Ph is above 7.0.

Although both have their challenges, it's probably the land with the higher Ph situation that's most labor intensive. Beds must be raised, because of the need for acidic soil. Amend with well-decayed compost and lots of leaf matter that contains pine needles and oak leaves. You can buy truckloads of soil mixed for azaleas at most large landscaping yards. Although it's expensive, it will increase your chance for success.

In the Southeastern US, the Ph of the soil is much better for raising azaleas. In sandy soil, the only obstacle is the lack of water-holding organic matter. Amend as mentioned for blackland areas, but don't raise the beds any higher than what you consider attractive for your landscape so the beds will hold moisture.

Azaleas can develop a fairly large root ball, as anyone whoever tried to dig up a established azalea can tell you. Azaleas should be considered a permanent planting. Under a deciduous tree is ideal in most parts of the US. Too much shade, for example under pines or cedar trees, will result in leggy growth and poor bloom production.

Azaleas have lots of shallow roots that are vulnerable to heat and cold stress. Therefore, keep a layer of 2-3 inches of mulch over the roots, but leave an inch of space between the mulch and the trunk of the azalea. This will keep the roots moist and cool as well as prevent fungus from reaching the trunk. When buying azaleas watch out for large plants in small containers. This usually means that the roots are compacted or circling around the pot. If this is the case, you must spread the roots out before planting or the roots will continue to grow around the root ball, eventually killing the plant.

When planting, don't bury the root ball any deeper than it is in the pot. Water frequently, especially if planted under a large tree. Always fertilize after the bloom period and no later than mid-summer. There are azalea foods available and they should be used and applied as directed. The trick to fertilizing azaleas is to use small amounts of fertilizer more frequently, because azalea roots burn very easily. Pull weeds around the base so you won't disturb the roots. Prune immediately after the bloom. Severe pruning is OK if plants have become too woody, but leave plenty of green on the plant so it can produce energy for new growth. Prune so that the bottom is wider than the top to allow sunlight to reach the lower branches.

Yellowish leaves in the spring are normal as the plants shed their old leaves. This is also true in gardenias. But, if you have yellowing and weak growth year round and you've been fertilizing on the recommended schedule, look for a source of alkalinity. For example, is lime from the cement used in your home's foundation or driveway leaching into the soil?

The most common pest is the azalea lace bug. They feed on the underside of the leaves, giving leaves a gray, blanched or coarse stippled appearance. The underside of leaves become discolored by shiny black excrement and cast skins. Azaleas in full sun are more prone to lace bugs. There are several pesticides available that are listed for lace bug control.

Another problem is powdery mildew, which occurs when nights are warm and dry, above 75 degrees F. This can be controlled by using any of several commercial and home remedies for powdery mildew.