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The largest seed potatoes that are about the size of a hen's egg can be cut four ways with each piece having at least one eye to sprout and grow into a potato plant. Smaller potatoes should be left as they are or the yield will be decreased. That is my experience, but some old-timers cut off each eye with a small amount of potato the size of a quarter and swear this is how it's done. My experience is that the larger pieces provide a greater yield and more vigorous plant. After cutting the seed potatoes, let the cut pieces dry in a bright, dry and warm area for 2 or 3 days before planting. The cut areas on the seed potatoes will become shiny as they dry or "cure.". At that time you can dust with agricultural sulfur or wood ashes to inhibit mold if your soil is unusually damp. Dusting with agricultural sulphur also helps control some bugs like the potato beetle.
Fertilize your bed with a good granulated organic fertilizer. Avoid manure that is not well composted or you will get scabby patches on your potatoes. If adding another type of fertilizer, remember plants that produce tubers, such as potatoes, like a fertilizer with phosphorous and potassium rather than a high rate of nitrogen that will promote lush top growth at the expense of tuber development. Look for a fertilizer with a ratio such as 8-12-12 or 6-9-9. Lots of well-rotted compost works well mixed with the soil. Dirt with lots of clods in it will produce bumpy potatoes. The smoother the soil, the smoother the potatoes.
As the potatoes start to grow, pile compost and soil around the stem and leave about 4 inches of the top above the material. Potatoes are formed along the area from the top of the stem to where the seed potato was planted. If there isn't any material along the stem for the potatoes to grow in, the yield will be greatly decreased. Continue piling soil and compost around the stem throughout the growing period for optimal yields.
When potatoes bloom the purple bloom looks like the bloom on its cousin in the nightshade family, the eggplant. That is why you don't plant potatoes or other members of the nightshade family, such as tomatoes, close together because they are affected by the same bugs such as the Colorado Potato Beetle.The Colorado potato beetle resembles a yellow ladybug with black stripes. If you see the Colorodo potato beetle on the leaves of your potato plants, spray with Bt Kurstaki which is formulated for Colorado Potato Beetle control. If you have gophers, they will need to be trapped. If your potato plant produces a small fruit after the bloom period, that is the actual seed. The seeds look like tomatoes but should not be eaten as they are poisonous. Protect any potatoes that are close to the soil surface from becoming exposed to the sunlight. Sunlight will make the skin turn green and green potato skin is toxic. Potatoes that have turned green on one side due to sun exposure should be discarded. Water heavily during dry periods if plants begin to wilt. Potatoes are very sensitive to changes in soil moisture during the growing process.
When the tops turn brown and fall over 110 days or so from planting, it's time to start harvesting. If you use a pitchfork, shovel, or potato fork, turn the dirt in a way that doesn't cut or puncture the tubers. You will need to stick your hands down into the soil and feel for the new potatoes, but wear gloves because of fire ants and snakes. If you live in sandy soil that is kept moist, but not wet, you can harvest over a longer period rather than digging all at one time. Heavy clay soil will bake hard in the warmer weather and make harvest difficult so harvest the potatoes when ready. Do not plant the following plants in the same area as the potatoes were planted for at least a year: tomatoes, squash, cucumbers, pumpkins, or turnips.
Published by Jim Gober
Jim Gober is a professional garden writer and farmer from Central Texas. He is a Master Gardener and Certified Texas Nursery and Landscape Professional. Known as the Big Lump Gardener, he holds degrees in Bu... View profile
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