How to Hang Curtains

Tracks, poles and rods are a practical necessity, and a decorative addition to your window dressing.

Once you have decided on the style of curtains, you need to choose the right type of fitting for hanging them to look their best and suit the style of the window. Whatever your requirements, there is a track or pole suitable for the task, with options for plain through to very decorative and ornate solutions. Ask yourself:

• Are the curtains light, medium or heavyweight? Check that your choice of track or pole is strong enough to take their weight.

• Where am I going to fix the track? Make sure that the track you choose can be attached to the ceiling or window frame instead of the wall, if necessary.

• Is the window in a bay? Find out whether the track is flexible enough to be bent round the angles, or the poles or rods come with angled connections or curved joints to carry them round the corners.

• Will I need a pelmet of valance to hide the track? Not necessarily, if you hang the curtains from a pole or a concealed or decorative track, or make sure that the track blends with the paintwork in the background.

• Do I want to hand nets or a blind, and/or a valance with the curtains? If so, look out for special dual or triple track systems that are designed to create a stylish layered look at a window.

• Am I going to pull the curtains by hand or with cords? There are many corded tracks and poles that make pulling the curtains effortlessly smooth, without damaging the curtains.

Tracks

Tracks are made from plastic or metal. They can be plain, colored or decorated, and corded or uncorded. When purchasing your track, allow an extra 9 inches (22.5cm) on each side of the window so that you can pull the curtains right back.

Most tracks are supplied with brackets, screws and wall plugs for fitting them to the wall or ceiling, along with a range of accessories, including end stops to prevent the curtains falling off the track, gliders with integrated hooks, or runners and separate hooks, depending on the style of track. Spare components, like extra gliders, brackets, finials, cording sets and valance tracks, are available if you with to modify your track system later on.

Some tracks have crossover arms so that the curtains overlap at their leading edges, helping to cut out light and reduce draughts. Avoid crossover arms for very heavy curtains, as the bulky fabric will make it difficult to close them.

• Basic tracks are suitable for hanging sheers and light to medium weight curtains. They are available in a range of standard lengths that can be cut to size using a small hacksaw, and are easy to fit to walls or ceilings.

• Combination tracks have two or three tracks to carry the main curtain plus a valance and/or a sheer curtain or blind. Many come with cording systems. Separate valance tracks can also be fitted in front of a compatible single curtain track, or put up on independent brackets.

• Concealed tracks are suitable for curtains with deep headings. The runners for holding the curtain hooks hand down below the track. The exposed front of the track can be papered, covered in fabric or painted to suit the rest of the room.

• Heavy duty metal tracks are designed for medium to heavyweight curtains. Some are expandable, and easily adjusted to fit the window. Most come with cording systems. Steel tracks that have to be angled around bays or curved areas should be installed professionally.

• Multipurpose tracks can be wall or ceiling mounted, and bent round bow windows. They have front mounted gliders with integrated hooks and rings, allowing you to hang a separate lining behind the curtain.

• Ruche track has special cord guides and in-built hooks for hanging Austrian, festoon and Roman blinds neatly.

• Ultra-slim tracks are neat and easy to bend. They are ideal for carrying nets and light weight curtains, or frills round cots and dressing tables.

Poles

These are made of wood, metal or plastic, in a range of styles and thicknesses. They often come in kit form, complete with rings and matching finials, and brackets, screws and wall plugs for fixing them to your walls.

Available in standard lengths, they can be cut to exact size with a saw. Allow an extra 9 inches (22.5cm) on each side of the window for drawing the curtains well back.

Poles are generally used for straight runs, but they can be connected by metal or wooden corner connections to go round bow and bay windows.

The poles are attached to the wall or ceiling by means of brackets - in recess use recess brackets. Make sure you fix extra brackets at regular intervals to support very long poles or those carrying heavy, interlined curtains.

• Metal poles can be made of heavy brass or iron, or more commonly lighter weight smooth or reeded (ridged) aluminum or steel in bright brass, black, white or ivory finishes.

• Plastic poles are an inexpensive solution for supporting light to medium weight curtains.

• Wooden poles come in a range of natural wood shades and in plain colors, such as black and white. You can purchase unvarnished poles and paint them to match your room color scheme.

• Concealed track poles, available in brass and wood finishes, look like poles but work like tracks, with simulated half rings that run smoothly on nylon gliders slotted into the back of the pole. They are frequently pre-corded.

Rods

• Cafe rods are very fine plastic or brass rods, designed for sheer or cafe curtains. These rods can be fixed to walls or ceilings, and angled round bay windows with curved joints.

• Dormer rods are hinged at one end so that you simply fold rod and curtain back together against the adjoining wall, allowing in maximum light at a dormer or deeply recessed window. They come in a variety of materials, from white plastic to solid brass.

• Extendible rods work like a telescope, so you can adjust their length to suit the window. Such adjustable rods are not suitable for carrying very heavy curtains.

• Portier rods hold curtains over external doors to keep out draughts. The hinged end of the rod is fitted to the door frame, while the other end is attached to the top edge of the door. The curtain lifts up as the door opens.

• Tension rods are fine plastic rods with an internal spring-loading mechanism to hold them in place across a window recess. They are good for hanging light and sheer curtains.

• Valance rods are designed to hold a valance in front of the curtain heading. They are smooth-faced, deep rods fixed to brackets at each end of the curtain track. The rod is threaded through a casing along the top of the valance, which is then ruched up to create a gathered heading.

The next steps are a general guide to putting up a curtain track. You need to fit brackets every 6 inches (15cm) to prevent sagging, especially for long tracks or those supporting heavy curtains.

Attach a pole or rod using the same measuring techniques. On short poles you only need to fit one bracket at either end; poles longer than 5 feet (1.5m) need at least one extra support in the middle, or every 4 feet (1.2m) if the pole is very long. Always follow the instructions that come with your particular curtain fixture.

What you will need:

• Pencil, measuring tape and spirit level
• Hammer-action drill
• Masonry bit
• Wall-plugs
• Brackets and screws for track or pole
• Screwdriver

For fixing with batten:

• Wooden batten 1 x 2 inch (25 x 50mm)
• Drill and wood bit
• Bradawl

1. Measure the window - Measure the width of the window and add on any allowance for extending the track on either side. Buy this length of track, together with enough brackets, screws and wall-plugs to support it at each end and every 6 inches (15cm) in between.

2. Marking the position - Lightly mark the position of the bottom edge of the brackets at the desired height at intervals across the wall, window recess or ceiling, using a pencil and measuring tape. Use a spirit level to check the line is horizontal.

3. Fixing the brackets - Hold a bracket on the marked line and use a pencil to mark screw holes lightly on the wall, 1 inch (2.5cm) in from either end of the fixture and at 6 inch (15cm) intervals in between. Drill holes in the wall and attach the brackets with wall-plugs and screws.

4. Fitting the track - Push an end stop on to the track to prevent the runners sliding off. Slot on the runners 0 one for each curtain hood - and fit on the other end stop. Fit the track on to the brackets, making sure to leave at least one runner outside the bracket at each end.

Using a batten

Sometimes on a wide window it saves time and drilling to fix a 2 x 1 inch (50 x 25mm) batten across the top. Then you simply screw the brackets for holding the track or pole to that rather than the wall. The same applies to a ceiling where the joists do not coincide with the positions of the brackets.

1. Preparing the batten - Measure the width of the window as above and cut the batten to length. Using a wood bit, drill a hole 2 inches (5cm) from each end of the batter. Drill more holes at regular intervals approximately 12 inches (30cm) apart in between.

2. Positioning the batten - Decide on the height of the track above the window. Center a bracket on the batten and mark its lower edge. Lightly mark the position of the bottom edge of the batten on the wall with a pencil and measuring tape, so that the brackets are at the desired height.

3. Fixing the batten - Hold the batten along the marked line, check that it is level and mark through the holes on to the wall with a bradawl. Using a masonry bit and hammer drill, make fixing holes, insert wall-plugs and screw the batten in place.

4. Attaching the brackets - Pain the batten in the same color as the wall or curtains. Make starting holes on the batten with a bradawl and screw the brackets in place, 1 inch (2.5cm) from either end and at regular 6 inch (15cm) intervals in between.