How to Moisturize African-American Hair

Chronic hair dryness and lack of hair moisture are common problems for African-Americans and others with textured hair types. Keeping African-American hair moisturized can be a challenging feat without an appropriate moisture strategy. In order to discuss proper moisturizing techniques for African-American hair, we must first address the causes of dry hair in this demographic.

Why is African-American Hair Dry?

According Dr. Ali Syed, co-author of Hair and Hair Care, the dryness that plagues African-American hair is caused by an inherently lower water content in the hair fiber and lower sebaceous oil gland activity in the scalp, compared to other races and ethnicities. With less sebum -- the hair's natural oil -- being deposited along the hair fiber as a means of cuticle protection, dry scalps and hair remain common problems among African-Americans and other people of color. Sebum helps keep the hair moisturized, not by acting as a moisturizer itself, but by coating the hair shaft and helping the hair maintain its own natural moisture. This is the general action of oils upon the hair. Unfortunately, because African-American hair has a naturally lower water content, and a naturally lower oil barrier to keep the little moisture available inside, dryness is common feature of this hair type.

How Do You Moisturize African-American Hair?

Moisturizing Shampoos and Conditioners:

Wash your hair at least once per week with a quality moisturizing shampoo and conditioning formula, ideally from the same product line. A moisturizing shampoo and conditioner should be the backbone of any textured hair care regimen. If dandruff is a problem, make sure shampoos also treat this scalp condition, as a healthy scalp leads to healthy and moisturized hair.

To establish proper moisture levels in African-American hair and other textured hair types, the hair should be deep-conditioned at least once per week for 15 to 20 minutes under warm dryer heat, says Tywana Smith, owner of Treasuredlocks.com.

Protein Reconstructors:

Incorporate a light protein reconstructing conditioner like Joico K-Pak into the hair-care regimen. African-American hair is made up almost entirely of proteins. Research by Clairol chemists found that protein has a strong affinity for water. This affinity supports moisture retention within the hair shaft by allowing proteins to readily bind to water molecules in the hair. Unfortunately, the hair's protein structure is regularly damaged by day-to-day combing, sunlight, thermal styling, and chemical services like relaxers and permanent colors. When the hair's cuticle layer is compromised, moisture cannot be retained and the hair becomes drier. "Protein loss almost never occurs without moisture loss," according to Steve Tcherkezian, founder of Verticalsinhair. Using a protein reconstructor along with your regular, moisturizing deep-conditioning treatment will help reinforce your damaged hair.

Water-Based Moisturizing Products:

Use a water-based moisturizer for touch-up hair hydration on the go. According to Kraft and Lynde, authors of Moisturizers: What They Are and a Practical Approach to Product Selection, good moisturizer formulas will contain a mixture of humectants and emollients. To identify good moisturizers for African-American hair, look for moisturizing products with water as a first ingredient. Select products that contain humectants, or water-attracting ingredients, like panthenol and glycerin, in the formula. Also look for emollients, or lipids and fatty acids, like glyceryl stearate and propylene glycol, to provide long-lasting moisture. Though water-based moisturizing products are essential for imparting daily moisture to African-American hair, long-lasting moisture should ideally come from a dedicated, deep-conditioning regimen with high-quality moisturizing shampoo and conditioner products.

Avoid Heavy Oils

Many products marketed to black consumers contain shaft-coating oils that do not adequately hydrate black hair. Avoid moisturizing products that contain heavy oils like mineral oil and petrolatum as key ingredients. While these ingredients have a place in black hair-care, they are not hydrators or moisturizers. According to the American Academy of Dermatology, while moisturizers often provide a great benefit to the hair and scalp, hair oils and pomades may aggravate scalp conditions like dandruff in African-Americans. These oils act as sealants, keeping precious moisture in the hair when used in moderation, but blocking it out when used in excess. As a rule, moisturizing products should go on the hair before oils for best results.

Step Up Your Styling Game

To help African-American hair retain moisture, reduce the use of chemicals and heat-styling tools used for hair maintenance. Chemical relaxers, permanent colors and thermal-styling tools rob precious moisture from your hair by affecting the hair's protein structure, Tcherkezian says. Changes to your hair's protein structure increase the hair's porosity significantly. Increased porosity means open, damaged cuticles. Open cuticles mean poor moisture retention within the hair shaft. Porosity issues can be temporarily corrected by regularly using a protein reconstructing product along with moisturizing products as needed. Permanent hair coloring should be limited. Relaxer applications should also be limited and occur no sooner than every eight to 10 weeks. Too much styling can increase hair thinning, so a more careful styling routine may also help with any hair loss.

References

Syed, Ali. Hair and Hair Care. Avlon Industries.

Tcherkezian, S. Hair Upclose. Verticalsinhair.

Tcherkezian, S. Know Your Hair. Verticalsinhair.

Kraft, JN, and Lynde CW. Moisturizers: What They Are - Practical Approach to Selection: What Are Moisturizers? Medscape.

American Academy of Dermatology. Skin of Color. AAD.org.

Pande, C.and Jachowicz, J. Hair photodamageMeasurement and prevention.Society of Cosmetic Chemists.

Smith, T. Black Hair Care Tips, Style and FAQS. Treasuredlocks.