PVC pipe is a common type of pipe that is easy to work with, even for someone who has never touched plumbing before. PVC pipe can be identified by its white color. Repairs can be accomplished with a simple hacksaw, tape measure, replacement parts one can of primer and one can of glue.
To begin making your repairs, identify what areas will need replacements. In the well house where my pipes were frozen, the exposed pipe began just above a check-valve at floor level. The check valve was brass and did not have any problems. It was the pipe just above the check-valve that was damaged. The pipeline ran along the north wall, turned to run down the west wall through a series of filters, which were also damaged, then turned south and into a pressure tank. While it looked complicated, a simple fix to see us through the emergency could be accomplished by piping directly from the check-valve above the well and running it directly to the south pipe, thereby eliminating several feet of pipes and connections. It would take two 90 degree couplings, two regular couplings, and about four feet of PVC pipe to make a temporary repair that would last us until spring. One thing to be sure of is what size of pipe you are working with. In my case, it was 1" PVC pipe.
Once I had a material list in mind, I headed to the hardware store. I was surprised to find out the fittings were inexpensive, less than 50 cents apiece. A ten foot length of PVC pipe was under $5. The solvent and the glue were the most expensive items on my shopping list. I picked up extra fittings just in case I made a mistake when gluing the joints together. The total price of the repair materials was less than $20.
Back at the well house I began by tracking down the tools I would need. One thing I learned through trial and error was that a circular pipe can damage the pipe and cause it to splinter. It is more desirable to use a small hand saw. I also turned off the well and made sure all electrical fixtures were off before I began. I cut the pipeline about ½" above the check valve and made a second cut two feet from the pressure tank. This allowed plenty of room to re-pipe the well correctly when the weather, and time, permitted.
I was nervous enough about the repairs that I accidentally did something correct, though I did not know it at the time. I test fitted the entire line before I glued a single joint. Once I was satisfied that my repair would work and all of my cuts were adequate, I began gluing the pipes together.
To glue PVC pipe to form a leak-proof weld, you must first clean the pipe. This is accomplished by swabbing a generous amount of primer on both the male and female parts that you will be gluing together. Once the pipe is primed, coat both fittings with glue.
Once you have glue on both parts of the pipe, push them together firmly. It helps to use a slight twisting motion to glide the male part of the pipe into the female part of the fitting. It took me about thirty minutes to complete the temporary repair. I also knew the glue would need time to dry before I could turn on the well and look for leaks.
I made myself go back into the house for the hour so that I would not be tempted to turn on the pump sooner than I should. When the time was up, I bundled up and headed back to the well house. I held my breath and turned on the breaker for the pump. It took a few minutes for the water from the well to reach the well house and I had just about given up when I heard the gurgling of the water inside the pipes.
I watched for leaks for nearly an hour before I was satisfied my temporary repairs would hold through the crisis. I plugged in the heaters to prevent further damage to the pipes and headed back to the house for a well deserved shower.
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Published by Sharyl Stockstill - Featured Contributor in Lifestyle
Sharyl Stockstill is a Top 500 Associated Content producer with articles on Shine, Y! Finance, Y! News, Y! Movies, Y Television and Y! Sports. She has also been published in numerous print publications inclu... View profile
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