How to Photograph an Active Volcano

No, we're not talking about jumping out of the bushes to get a shot of Sean Penn before he puts a finger in your eye. We are talking about a real volcano, with magma gushing out at 2,200 degrees Fahrenheit.

There are active volcanoes all over the world, but some of the easiest to approach are in the Volcanoes National Park in Hawaii, including Mauna Ulu, Pu'u O'o, Halemaumau, Mauna Loa, and the world's most active volcano, Kilauea. Park rangers can give information as to which roads are open and what areas are safe. (Tip: Islanders make offerings of gin to Pele, the Goddess of Fire, and perhaps you should too-before you get too close.)

A high-quality, single-lens reflex camera and a variety of lenses are essential for photographing volcanoes. If you are on foot, 24mm to 85mm fixed-focal length lenses or a zoom lens equivalent will suffice. (Always have a protective filter mounted on your lens to protect against damage from volcanic ash and spray.) During the early morning and evening hours when the light is low, it is essential to use a tripod. Make sure yours is sturdy and has metal spikes on the end instead of rubber feet, which can't take the heat. A backpack will work better than a camera bag because it distributes the weight more evenly and will help you keep your balance on the uneven landscape.

Wear a helmet, long clothing, heavy boots, and carry a sturdy poncho. You should also wear a respirator with a filter for volcanic fumes. Guides with four-wheel drive vehicles can be hired to get you closer to the eruption sites. The intense heat will tell you when you are reaching the danger zone. When the bottoms of your hiking boots start to melt you are close enough. Check with the National Park Service rangers for information about which areas are safe to visit.

If a volcano is actively erupting, a safer and more effective way to photograph it is from the air. Both airplanes and helicopters are readily available for rent. In either case, make sure the doors come off (photographing through Plexiglas will yield distorted images). Helicopters are roomier, can fly slower, and hover in the wind, but are less stable and noisier. Light planes are smoother, but cannot fly slower than about 60 knots without stalling and need to stay above 1,000 feet. Whichever aircraft you choose, ask around and make sure you get a good pilot.

In the air, you will need longer focal-length lenses, from 35mm to 135mm, in order to avoid getting the plane's wings or the helicopter's skids and rotors in your pictures. With longer lenses and the vibration caused by the aircraft, you will need to use higher shutter speeds and a tripod.

The extraordinary luminosity of molten lava makes it an interesting subject for photography at dawn or dusk. During the day, photograph the myriad lava "ropes," swirls, and other patterns that the cooled lava creates. Black-and-white film and strong backlighting will best render the textural gradations of this monochromatic subject. From the air in low light, set your focus to infinity and open the aperture all the way. Fast color film will allow you to use higher shutter speeds with longer lenses. With a tripod on the ground, you can create more interesting effects using time exposures. Use a variety of f-stops to "bracket" the exposure and manually expose the film for 10 to 30 seconds to capture a stream of flowing lava. Polarizing filters work well with color film. Try yellow or red filters with black-and-white film.

If you decide to shoot lava flowing into the ocean-an incredibly photogenic sight-keep your distance. The steam spray it sends up contains sulfuric and hydrochloric acids, which can do serious damage to your equipment, not to mention your skin.