How to Plant a Victory Garden

During World War II some food supplies were rationed. There began a promotion in Great Britain that spread to America, for the people to plant a Victory Garden to help produce their own vegetables and off-set expenses as well as leave more supplies for the troops. As a young girl, I remember the talk about Victory Gardens. People planted in their yards, groups planted Victory Gardens in vacant city lots and shared work and produce.

It was even said that some in large cities planted Victory Gardens on rooftops and that 40% of vegetables were supplied from Victory Gardens to the end of the war. I grew up in the country and our gardens were always huge! Today, due to climate here (gardens tend to burn up in July), I choose to plant a Victory Garden rather than a large garden so I can maintain it with a minimum of water and effort. Also, since I have grown up.....I do not CAN anything!

Where to plant a Victory Garden?

Good soil, adequate sunshine and sufficient drainage is all that is needed for a successful vegetable garden. A near-by water source is a plus. A good Victory Garden can be as small as a 10'X10' plot. Intensive gardening has been used for centuries by many people and accommodates limited space, climate conditions, water and labor. Small spaces fully utilized can product bountiful harvests even past the normal growing season.

Keep new plants (seedlings) coming

Forget about long rows with spaces between, you can get up to 10 times the amount of produce from a small area while working, weeding, watering and fertilizing economically. Putting plants close together saves space and inhibits weed growth. For example, you can put lettuce under and around longer growing vegetables such as tomatoes and peppers. As the plants begin to crowd out their neighbors, harvest the early maturing ones and get ready to replant. Have seeds or seedlings (I just use seeds) ready to replenish the area. The larger seeds soaked in water overnight will encourage quicker sprouting. For better results, use quick maturing varieties to fit several crops into one season and lengthen the harvest.

Plant companions - not competition

Some intercropping plants thrive better if root depth is considered. Paring shallow rooted vegetables as bush beans with deeply rooted beets produces heavier crops. Planting heavy feeders, as cabbage or cucumbers with light feeding carrots or beans reduces the competition for soil nutrients.

Grow up - not out

Put your Victory Garden plot with a fence, trellis or wall at the north end. That way the tall plants will not shade the smaller plants. Vine plants like cucumbers, peas or pole beans naturally climb. Tomatoes grown in a cage will produce more fruit and ripen earlier. Heavier crops such as cantaloupe, melons and squash can be tied to tripod poles with slings for the fruit development if needed to keep them from tearing off the vine too soon. This year I am going to try some cantaloupe and okra.

Sunshine amounts

Leafy greens (lettuce, spinach and turnip greens) grow well in part shade. Beets, garlic, peas and radishes do well on 4 hours of sun a day, while corn, eggplant, peppers and tomatoes require 8 hours of sun to bear the most fruit.

In conclusion

Today, tiny vegetable gardens are plentiful. I use these same techniques to get the most from a small space as I do not have the equipment or the energy to maintain and harvest a large garden. Combine these plans with petite plants and your produce harvest will be bountiful and lengthy. Try a Victory Garden of your own, tailored to your wants and needs and enjoy the rewards.