How to Replace Worn-out Outer Tie Rod Ends

Automobile suspension components used to come with zerk fittings; at every other oil change one was to get underneath the car and pump a bit of grease into each. These days, most undercarriage joints are sealed and maintenance free, but they nevertheless wear out and replacement. Among the joints requiring periodic checks and replacement is the outer tie rod end, which connects the tie rod to the steering knuckle.

Tie rod end replacement could be done at the same time as control arm bushings, ball joints, and struts as part of a total front suspension overhaul, or alone by itself if there are signs of trouble. If the outer tie rod end's rubber boot looks cracked or dry-rotted, it ought to be replaced. The joint still may need replacing even if the boot is intact. To check, after having raised and supported the vehicle, remove the front wheel and try to push the steering knuckle from side to side. If you can feel or hear play in the tie rod end's ball joint--a "clunk"--the joint must be replaced. If your vehicle has the older style of tie rod end, perform this check before pumping grease into the joint; grease can temporarily reduce the joint's pay, but it will quickly return.

Below I present instructions for replacing the outer tie rod end. The vehicle shown in the pictures is a 2000 Daewoo Nubira, but the instructions apply to most cars and light trucks. Those performing full front suspension overhauls of the Nubira may be interested in my instructions for control arm replacement. A special tool, a lever-press ball joint lifter, makes both of these repairs much easier than if it were performed using the tradition tool, a "pickle fork" style ball-joint lifter. KD Tools's ball joint separator, sold through Sears.com, is a good choice of entry-priced ball joint lifters. No other special tools are required. I purchased outer tie rod ends from Rockauto.com; you may wish to try them if your local parts store does not carry outer tie rod ends for your vehicle.

Proceed as follows:

1. Loosen lugnuts, then raise and support the vehicle.
2. Remove the wheel.
3. Remove the tie rod end retaining nut. The tie rod end terminates in a ball-jointed post inserted in a hole in the steering knuckle. The nut on the end of this post--not the nut on the tie rod--is what is to be removed.
4. Using a lever press ball joint lifter or a "pickle fork" and hammer, separate the outer tie tod end from the steering kuckle. If you use the lever press, take care to keep your hands away from the area above the knuckle, as the tie rod end can pop out violently.
5. Back the outer tie rod end stop nut away from the outer tie rod end a few turns, keeping track of the number of turns.
6. Locate the flat area of the tie rod. Hold the tie rod in place by placing this flat area in an open-ended wrench, and twist the outer tie rod end off. If the tie rod end is stuck, place it partway back into the steering kunckle and loosen it by turning the tie rod a quarter turn clockwise.
7. Turn the outer tie rod end stop nut back to its original position.
8. Twist the new outer tie rod end back onto the tie rod until it hits the stop nut.
9. Insert the post on the tie rod end to the corresponding hole in the steering knuckle. Thread the tie rod end retaining nut onto the post and tighten. If this is not a locking nut, apply a bit of Loctite or similar threadlocking compount.
10. Replace the wheel, lower the vehicle, tighten the lugnuts, and repeat on the other side.
11. Perform an alignment or take the vehicle to a shop to be aligned. If you kept track of the number of turns and your new outer tie rod end is similar in dimensions to the old one, your alignment will be close, but whenever replacing a worn part, it will be a bit different.