How to Revitalize Garden Chrysanthemums

Vigorous chrysanthemum's browning and lower leaves die regularly. They oftten develop browning and lower leaves die. Winter weather is one of the worst enemies of mums. By this time you should be able to tell how well yours have fared. If they have little or no growth, do not expect much more, and discard them in favor of those that show more hardiness and vigor. In many localities it is still possible to purchase garden mums either as small plants, or as blooming plants. New plants may be the best replacements for those that have been weakened by winter weather. Chrysanthemums that have been growing well may have many shoots that may be divided at this time.

Division is easily done by digging each plant and separating it into sections of one or two shoots each. If any plants are known to be diseased, they should be discarded rather than replanted. Chrysanthemums which have not been dug and divided regularly often develop browning and lower leaves die. Several reasons for the development of this problem are possible. One of the most common causes for yellowing and dying of lower leaves is overcrowding. This is often coupled with low nitrogen and frequent wilting because of inadequate water during hot, dry periods. Young vigorous plants, well space, watered and fertilized, are less likely to develop this problem than large, dense clumps.

Another frequent cause for dying of lower leaves is a fungus disease known as leaf spot. Unlike the previous problem in which the leaves simply yellow and die, leaves infected with the leaf spot first develop dark brown areas. The leaves eventually yellow and die. Damage progresses from the base of the plant upwards. This problem can be controlled by sprays of fungicide. If the problem has been particularly severe, plant mums in a new location. Vertichillium wilt is another disease which attacks mums.

Plants die from the base upward, usually wilting first. When this disease is present, plants should be discarded. Do not plant mums back into areas where this disease has been present. It may persist in the soil for many years. Since there is always a chance of moving such disease unknowingly while transplanting our garden mums. Propagation by cuttings provides an easy way to get young plants without this danger.

Remove lower leaves from each cutting and insert it into a pot or flat of clean sand, vermiculite, peat moss, perlite, or any combination of these materials. Have the material moist but not excessively wet. Cover the cuttings with plastic to keep up humidity, and place them in a bright hut not sunny location. They should root in about two weeks. After they are rooted, remove the plastic, allow them to harden outdoors in shade for a few days, and then plant them directly into the flower border.

Mums which are not moved this year should have the tip pinched out when they reach heights of 4 to 6 inches. This will promote bushy, low plants. Additional pinches may be necessary, but do not take out terminal growth after mid July.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chrysanthemum