Proper Swimwear
First thing you need to do before you even get into the work out, is make sure you are wearing the proper gear for surfing. Before you step foot on the beach, purchase the right swimwear and do a "Squat Check". "Squat Check", "What is that?" you ask. Whether you are a guy or girl, you are going to be sitting on a board that will be anywhere from 1 ¾ft to 2ft wide. If you don't have the proper gear, you'll either rip your shorts, or for the girls who like to sport their bikinis while surfing, you may get a major wedgie or lose your top. For both guys and girls wearing shorts, make sure you are wearing "board shorts" and that they are waterproof. They need to be loose on the legs and hang just right on the waist. Once you got the right brand, color you want, it's time for the "Squat Check". Keep your legs about a foot apart and squat down as far as you can. Once you sit on the board in the water, you'll know if you chose the right gear or not.
For the girls who are wearing bikini tops instead of a one piece, make sure your top & bottom are secure before going out. A halter top is probably best, but as long as you have proper coverage and support for the front and it's tied tightly in the back around your back and neck; you should okay. Your bikini bottom should fit well and not be too loose. If you see a bunch of men smiling and clapping and women making gestures to cover your chest or bottom when you are riding your first wave, you probably chose the wrong swimsuit.
Stretching
Once you have the right gear, it's time to get your body ready. Surfing is a full body work out that works your muscles from head to toe. It involves your arms, legs, back, abs and chest. As in any other sport or workout, you need to do some stretching exercises, to prepare your body for a full workout. Try doing your stretches in your hotel room or wherever you are staying right before you go down to the beach. Start with doing a few squats to stretch your legs. For your arms, stretch them straight up and out to the sides, twist your upper body with your arms out a couple times. To stretch your back, bend down and touch your toes. If you forget to stretch, do it on the beach before you go out. If you don't stretch, you will definitely regret it the next day. If you want to be stiff as a board the next day & miss your luau the next night because your body is in pain, don't say I didn't warn you.
Renting a Surfboard
Once you are down at the beach, it's time to rent and find the right surf board. If' you are in need of lessons, the stand next to the police station on Kalakaua Avenue is the best. They have great boards, good instructors and have rentals from $10-$20 per hour. Whether you pay an instructor or try it out on your own, it's good to have an idea of what you are getting into so that you are prepared and don't waste your hour that you are paying for.
When choosing a board, make sure that it is at least a foot to 2 feet taller than you. This is to ensure that you will not be to tall or heavy for the board. The cheapest boards are made of foam. Though it is cheap and safer if you fall on the board or hit someone else, if you have sensitive skin, the foam may cause irritation as it will be rubbing against your bare skin for at least an hour. The epoxy boards are my favorite.
Getting in the Water
Once you have your board, carry or drag it close to the water's edge. Next is your leash. Make sure that it is securely fastened on the board. When strapping the leash to your ankle, keep in mind that this foot will be the foot that stays in the back when you stand up on your board. If you ever rode a skate board and usually put your right foot in front, you are a "goofy footer". In this case, put your leash on the left side. "Goofy Footer's are not common. If you are not sure, put the leash on the right foot to be safe. Now it's time to head into the water.
When the board is in the water, jump on and scoot yourself back so that your toes are almost touching the edge. You should have at least a foot to 2ft in from your head to the front of your board. Hopefully you are able to stay on the board and keep your balance. Once you have your balance set, try and sit on the board towards the middle. If you are unable to balance while laying or sitting down, try asking an instructor on the beach for help or switch to another board before you paddle out and embarrass or hurt yourself. Also, if you didn't take my advice and have sensitive skin and it's starting to feel raw or irritated, you too should switch before you paddle out.
Paddling Out
Paddling correctly is important for quick forward movement and good balance. Reach your arm out in front of you as far as you can, dig deep into the water and pull back as far as you can. Alternate your arms and paddle out with your head slightly up looking forward. As you paddle out, there will be waves coming in. Try to go over the wave by putting your head up and pushing your hands in a "push up" position. If the wave is larger, hold on tightly to the sides of your board, lean to the left or right and roll the board over. This way, the wave will go over you without taking you with it.
Paddle out approximately, 20-30 yards and turn your board back around toward the beach and try to position yourself, directly between the front of the surf lesson/board rental stand and the life guard stand in front of the police station. This surf spot is called "Canoes".
What to Watch For
Once you are out there, be sure to watch the horizon for any lumps which could be potential waves. Don't paddle too far out towards the horizon. If you are the surfer that is the farthest out, you've gone too far. At "Canoes", you will see tourists and local residents, body boarding, surfing and canoeing. As you watch the horizon for waves, watch for other surfers, body boarders and canoes. Stay far from the path of the canoes. Once you see them out waiting for a wave, paddle at least 10-15ft away from them. The canoes are very fast once they are on the wave. If you are in the path of a canoe or board and only have a few seconds to react, get off of your board dive down into the water as deep as you can.
Catching a Wave
Once you are in a good clear spot and see a wave coming, make sure your board is pointed straight toward the beach. Next, start paddling as deep and fast as you can. You should be alternating your arms as you are paddling, but if it is easier for you, you can try using both arms together. When you feel the wave push you forward and you are riding it while lying down, put your hands on the board and do a "push up". Then get up on your knees. Next, put your left foot up first, turn your body slightly to the right and put your right foot up. If you are a goofy footer, do the opposite, right foot up first, turn to the left then left foot up. Once you are up, keep your arms up slightly above your waist and hands in front of you for balance. When the wave dies down or you feel your self falling when you are on the wave, jump off to the side of the board. Try not to kick your board forward or out to the side when jumping off so that you do not hit anyone with your board.
All Set & Ready to Go!
Now you have the knowledge you need to have fun while surfing in Waikiki. Just think how much more prepared you are then all the other tourists on the beach who haven't a clue. Keep in mind, practice makes perfect. You may not catch the first wave you go for. You may not catch your first 3, but if you are renting the board for an hour, you have lots of time to practice and have fun until you get it!
Published by Malama
Malama is a freelance writer who is blessed with time to write. View profile
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