How to Make the Swiss Specialty Malakoff (Light and Crisp Fried Cheese Croquettes)

Every year we make the journey to Luins in the hills near Nyon on Lake Leman (Lake Geneva) in Switzerland. Driving through the vineyards high on the hillside with a view of the lake below is not complete without stopping to eat a local specialty at the Auberge de Luins. This restaurant is run by the Marguerat family who, in my opinion, make the best Malakoffs in the region.

Malakoffs apparently came into being in the mid 19^th century during the time of the invasion of Fort Malakoff in Sebastopol, Russia, by the French army. Swiss soldiers from the Vaud region brought back the recipe to the villages of Luins and Vinzel where it has become a popular specialty.

Originally it seems the malakoffs were simply sticks of cheese battered and deep fried, which doesn't sound very inviting, but it was the army after all. Now they are more luxurious creations and very addictive. At the Auberge de Luins the malakoffs are round, and light and soft on the inside and crispy on the outside. I always wondered how they got the malakoff to have such a light texture instead of the heavy greasy feel we normally would associate with melted cheese. So I asked the chef.

I was invited into the kitchen to watch the whole process. The cheese mixture is made from grated gruyere cheese, eggs, milk and maizena (maize flour). Dough is formed and a ball of dough is placed firmly onto a slice of baguette. The malakoffs are placed upside down into a deep fryer, with very clean oil I was pleased to note, and fried until golden and crispy. They are served immediately so that the centres of the malakoffs are still soft.

OK so they're not for dieters but once a year doesn't hurt, and they're really good. I've started making them at home and serve them as an appetizer with drinks in cool weather. The success lies with the cheese I think. Gruyere is definitely best, and one that is not too mature as it becomes harder which changes the melting properties and texture of the malakoffs. Maize flour is usually easy enough to find, but a fine grain polenta also works well.

I didn't bother much with precise proportions of ingredients but a rough guide is provided in the following method.

Malakoff

1 cup maizena or other maize flour

2 eggs beaten

200g gruyere grated

Milk, enough to make soft dough that holds its shape

Baguette slices or other small bread rounds

This makes approximately 10-12 malakoffs depending on choice of size, each about the size of a golf ball is ideal. Make sure the frying oil is very clean and very hot before adding the malakoffs. A couple of minutes in the oil and they are ready to drain and serve immediately. Delicious.

A healthier version can be cooked like dumplings in Courgette and Gruyere Soup.