You will need:
Sweatshirt
Small amount of fusible interfacing
Purchased bias tape (matching or contrasting - your choice). The amount will depend on the sweatshirt size. I would purchase more than enough, and then return any unopened packages.
Buy a sweatshirt larger than the size you normally wear. I buy it two sizes larger, because it will shrink in the dryer, and if it is a sweater/jacket, you probably will want it roomy.
Wash the sweatshirt, and dry it in the dryer.
Step 1. Remove the bottom ribbing. You can do this easily by gently pulling the ribbing away from the garment, cutting (from the outside) the top layer of stitching that is in the ditch between the two sections, then gently pulling the ribbing apart again to expose the bottom layer of stitching, This layer can be easily cut with scissors
Step 2. Turn the sweatshirt inside out. Fold it in half, matching shoulder/neck and underarm seams. . Pin in place. Holding by the top, give the sweatshirt a gentle shake. If the sweatshirt hangs evenly on both sides, proceed to the next step. If it doesn't hang evenly, sew the bottom ribbing back on and wear it as a normal sweatshirt. It will never hang correctly as a sweater/jacket!
Step 3 Remove pins. Remove neck and sleeve ribbings.
Step 4. Re-fold and re-pin the sweatshirt as in step 2. Lay the folded sweatshirt on the ironing board (still wrong side out) smooth it flat, aligning the front fold evenly. Press the front fold into a sharp crease.
Step 5. Remove pins. Unfold the sweatshirt (still wrong side out); position flatly on the ironing board, with the creased front on top.
Step 6. Cut a strip of fusible interfacing ½" wide by the length of the sweatshirt front. Place the strip of fusible interfacing on the sweatshirt crease, fusible side down, centering exactly. You will be able to see the crease through the interfacing. Pin in place if needed.
Step 7. Fuse the interfacing in place, following manufacturer's directions. (Set the iron down on a spot, hold for the required amount of time -usually a few seconds- then pick the iron up and move it to the next spot. Do not slide the iron back and forth, or side to side, as this can stretch and distort the interfacing.) Allow to cool for a minute or two. The two fronts will now be stabilized, and will remain the same length.
Step 8. Cut the front of the sweatshirt and the interfacing on the crease line. (Center of the interfacing strip)
Step 9. Align the two fronts, cut a new neckline, if desired. I usually cut a gentle concave curve from the shoulder seam to the bust line.(You may also want to slightly curve the bottom front.This will make it easier to add the bias tape when finishing the edges.)
Step 10. Try on the sweatshirt; adjust sleeve length if needed.
Sometimes the sleeves need to be shortened.
Step 11. Unfold bias tape. Beginning on the bottom of the center back, align bias tape raw edge with the raw edge of the sweatshirt, right sides together. Pin if needed. Stitch the two pieces together, sewing on the fold of the bias tape. When you have sewn completely around the garment, sew together the beginning and ending edges of bias tape. Fold the tape to the inside of the garment, and slip stitch in place. Finish the sleeve edges in like manner.
Step 12. If you wish, add patch pockets. Embellish as desired.
There are many ways to embellish a sweatshirt. Beautiful motifs can be cut from fabric and adhered to the sweatshirt with fusible web; then the edges stabilized with zig-zag stitching. You can also purchase motifs; some only need to be ironed on. Another idea is to add beads, studs or stars. Fabric paint is another option. If you are handy with a needle and thread, you can add embroidery. Or, if your machine does fancy embroidery, you can utilize it to dress up your cardigan/jacket. You are only limited by your imagination!
Published by quiltinggal
Homemaker & mom View profile
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2 Comments
Post a Commenthow from a sweater?
has anyone done this with a knitted sweater?
can someone post pics of the finished product?