How to Understand Wind Conditions and Types of Breaks for Surfing

To surf like a champion, it is vital to know proper wind conditions and types of breaks in the ocean.

The direction the wind is blowing can greatly affect wave shape. In the morning or evening, there tends to be little or no wind, and the surf is more likely to be glassy. This refers to the incredibly smooth appearance of the water.

An onshore wind is one that blows from the ocean and is usually the least favorable direction. Strong onshore winds often result in blown-out surf- waves that have been made bumpy or flattened by the wind. This type of surf is also referred to as mush.

A side-shore wind blows across the swell. Although it's better than an onshore wind, it can also lead to deteriorating conditions.

An offshore wind blows from the shore into the surf and can enhance wave shape. An offshore wind helps hold up the incoming waves, giving them cleaner faces to ride.

Surf spots are also called breaks, referring to an area where surfable waves form. Wave energy will break differently depending on the tide, the swell direction, and- just as important- the characteristics of the shore bottom.

Beach breaks are areas where waves are breaking very close to shore. Often such breaks are very steep and hollow and are difficult to surf.

Sand breaks are areas where waves break over a sandbar. These breaks can be altered, because sand shifts and can look very different from time to time. Sand breaks are usually found relatively close to shore.

Reef breaks are areas where waves break over a coral or rocky reef. Coral reef breaks tend to occur in shallow water and can create some of the most spectacular barrels in the world. The majority of the famous island breaks in the world are coral reef breaks. California's rock reef breaks can also be incredible.

Point breaks are areas where waves break at a part of the shore that extends outward. These breaks tend to be larger and more consistent than other breaks because they're the first areas of shallow water that the swell hits. Often a swell will wrap around a point.

Outside breaks are areas of somewhat shallow water where waves break farther from shore. These breaks can create some of the largest and most powerful waves. Because the water is deeper than inside breaks, outside breaks usually require a deeper groundswell for waves to form.