How-To: Refinishing Bathroom Cabinets

Is that solid wood bathroom vanity looking a little dated? Perhaps the stain is fading, the sealant cracking or peeling, or maybe you just want to update it to match some new bathroom fixtures. Solid wood can really look spectacular when stained the right shade and finished off with a good sealer that really shines. Whether you are refinishing to renew the luster, can't find another vanity to replace the footprint in the tile, really love the cabinet/drawer configuration of your current vanity, or just want to save some money, I can help. Let's get started.

Here's what you will need:

1. 120-grit sandpaper
2. Sanding block (I prefer hand over machine but it's your arm)
3. Power sander (optional)
4. Spray bottle
5. Brushes (1" for smaller areas, 2" for larger)
6. Stain of your choice
7. Sealant of your choice
8. New hardware (optional) - drawer pulls, door handles, and hinges
9. Turpentine (optional) - for brush cleaning
10. Shop rags

Some prefer to stain and seal in one step and larger brands offer stain/seal in the same can. I have done it both ways and I think you will have better luck choosing the two-step option. The thing is that regardless what the label and even the appearance of the stain itself, it will not quite look like you might first imagine. This also depends on the grain of wood you have. But to really get the results you want, I would suggest doing more work once and being twice as pleased. I would hate for you to try to save work only to find, you have to start all over again with a lot of messy clean up. This leads me to another tip. Use inexpensive brushes. I don't mean the sponge throw-aways. Use brushes with bristles but don't spend $10-15 on a brush because after the cleanup, you may just wish you had spent $5 and can just toss them out. It is no picnic!

Start by sanding the large flat spots first. Work your way into the nooks and crannies. Remove the drawers and doors and all hardware possible. Start with a really nice clean slate. Sand all areas down to their bare bones. Give it a once over and then fill up your sprayer with water. Wet all areas to really open the pores of the wood. I know the tree is dead but this is a step I have always stood by to get the best results. Let it dry completely for half a day to a whole day depending on your area's humidity and heat.

Now, on to staining! Wet your brush with water, shake it out and dip it into your stain. Apply in as even strokes as you can. Try your best to make sure the same amount of stain is applied to all areas. This is especially hard with tight spots because liquid pools. Still do what you can and dab with your rag when you cannot. Once you have it all done, allow it to dry before deciding on a 2nd coat. Compare it to any new wood you may have chosen to incorporate into your bathroom face-lift. If it is too dark, give a little sanding to match. If too light, give another very light coat. If you have chosen the bare stain (sans sealer), the cleanup is easy with just a soak in the turpentine. Next day, give a rinse and you're back in business. The sealer really muddles and can be a real PITA to clean right.

Once you have the color just right, it is time to seal. Find a good quality one that isn't going to crack or peel. Thompson makes good ones but they are expensive. The Lowe's and Home Depot brands are comparable in quality, but cost nearly half as much. Apply an even coat (the stain should have been good practice), if too thick, it will run and look terrible. Get all the areas so it all has a great wet looking appearance. The top and sides where the wood has been cut needs special attention. You will see as you carry on.

I recommend new hardware because nothing completes that new look like matching spectacular new hinges and pulls. Put it all together and I hope you are pleased with your brand new (looking) bathroom cabinets!