The Wonders of Rome's Walls

Rome is the home of formidable ancient structures that still stand intact after two millenia. Among the most notable of Rome's works of timeless architecture are the Colosseum, the Forum and the Pantheon. Yet none of these match the Aurelian Wall, which spans 12 miles around the city's historical center.

Art historian Richard Krautheimer notes in his detailed tome "Rome: Profile of a City, 312-1308" that the Aurelian Wall--raised in the early fourth and fifth centuries--was THE capstone of the Eternal City's construction projects. Erected to safeguard the ancient capital, the Aurelian Wall was built to be impregnable and its hearty construction endures some 17 centuries later.

The modern-day visitor to Rome can easily observe this ring-fortress by bicycle or on foot within the span of a day. When I lived in Rome, I took a day on bicycle to trace the wall, beginning at its northern point just outside Piazza del Popolo. Here, the wall rises with an upgrade until reaching level ground just east of the Termini train station. It is in this neighborhood that the Aurelian Wall becomes interesting, taking one back to Roman splendor, where one can imagine seeing warrior-watchmen wielding weapons ready to welcome those who would dare besiege caput mundi.

South of Termini, a good map of Rome--or a detailed smart-phone satellite scan--will help the eager explorer bridge the gap between several sections of the wall. After some navigation, one encounters the most peaceful and pleasant of the Aurelian Wall's environs in its southeastern stretch, which is bordered by several parks sporting grass, umbrella pines, other flora and even some fauna romana. After admiring such a powerful piece of public works, your Aurelian journey can conclude with a hearty and authentic Roman meal in trendy Trastevere.

While the Aurelian Wall no longer keeps foreigners at bay, today's tourists can still admire its magnificence, one of the few great structures of Rome's golden age that endures in the Eternal City.