Information for Pet Owners: Worms, Fleas, Training and Nutrition

One thing veterinarians, technicians, and veterinary receptionists never run out of are questions from clients. We try to answer and educate them as thoroughly and in "plain English" as possible. Never feel you're asking us a "dumb question" because any question is a good question. Responding to these inquiries is part of our job and for you, it's an important part of responsible pet ownership. Just as a parent asks the pediatrician questions about their child, so should you ask your veterinarian questions about your pets.

There are many repetitive and commonly asked questions. Certain questions are usually brought up during routine examinations or are asked via phone or email. Some email or phone inquiries are made by pet owners who are not current patients and are just seeking general information. The majority of questions are regarding fleas, worms, heartworm, and training/behavior problems. I have provided 5 examples of some of the more common questions and the answers provided to the pet parents.

Q: "How do you know if your dog has worms? Besides looking in their stool, what are other symptoms? Can this harm humans? Should I be worried?"

A: Not all intestinal parasites (worms) can be seen in the stool by the naked eye. Most commonly, Tapeworms can be seen. They look like a flat grain of rice. The most frequently found parasites in dogs are Hookworms, Tapeworms, Roundworms, Whipworms, and Coccidia. If the dog is experiencing diarrhea or blood in the stool, those can be some symptoms of worms. Sometimes, a dog scooting their rear along the carpeting or ground can also be a symptom. (Most often, that symptom is due to full anal glands.) The only way to actually know if your dog has worms is to have a veterinarian perform a fecal exam. You can bring in a fresh stool sample or usually, we can extract some at the office. Then, we will look at the sample under a microscope. If evidence is discovered, we will deworm the dog. Most of the time, you will have to retreat in 3 to 4 weeks. Some intestinal parasites can be passed on to humans, such as Hookworms. Hookworms can also be contracted by running barefoot around an area which may contain feces or contaminated soil. That is how dogs get it, too. If they walk on soil or through contaminated feces, then lick their feet, that is one common way of contracting it. It is rare that a human contracts worms from their pet, but it can happen. The best thing to do is to make sure to keep sanitary, such as keeping your dog's waste area clean and washing your hands after word. Also, avoid letting your dog lick your lips or anywhere you may have contact orally. It's always a good idea to have your dogs fecal checked twice a year. Usually, vets will offer the simple test when you're in for routine vaccinations. If you ever notice fleas on your dog, watch for Tapeworms. When a pet grooms themselves and ingest a flea, that is one way they get tapeworms. Intestinal parasites are usually quite easy to treat. If you are worried, have a fecal test performed. (They aren't very expensive and you can have the results in less than 10 minutes.)

Q: "How can we rid our dog of fleas? It's so bad, even we're getting bit."

A: If the humans in the household are getting bit by fleas, you definitely have an infestation. There are products available to treat and protect against fleas from your veterinarian. The most recommended topical application products (liquid that you apply to the skin down the back) would be either *Frontline Plus or *Advantage. *Revolution works pretty well and is also used as a Heartworm preventative. I have had great results after recommending Frontline Plus for even the most severe infestations of fleas (and it also kills ticks.) If the dog spends time indoors, the best thing to do for the house after treating him would be to vacuum everything you can and throw the vacuum bag out of the house. (Not in the kitchen garbage or anywhere else inside the house.) Then, wash everything you can wash such as bed linens, blankets, etc. Next, apply a spray or powder to the environment including inside couch cushions and under tables and beds. A good powder to use is Boric acid but your vet can also recommend safe and effective products for inside the home and for your yard. If you treat carpeting, try not to vacuum for at least a week or two, otherwise, you may vacuum up the treatment. You want to try to keep the product in the environment for as long as possible. Repeat the whole procedure in 2 to 3 weeks, including applying the flea treatment you choose on the dog. Just a note, get the flea medication for the dog at a vet's office, not an 800# or on-line pet meds place. Those products are NOT backed by the manufacturing companies or by your vet and are most likely imitations even if it looks the same. Definitely don't buy similar types of products for the treatment of the pet in your grocery store or other over-the-counter stores. I have seen way too many serious reactions to those. One more suggestion: if you use Advantage and wish to bathe the dog within the time period that your dog is treated with it, use a soap-free shampoo. If you use Frontline Plus, try not to bathe 2 days before or 2 days after applying. These tips are to assure the product works the best.
* Bayer (Advantage)
* Merial (Frontline Plus)
* Pfizer (Revolution)

Q: "My 9 week old puppy is eliminating all over the place! What do I do? Sometimes he goes on the paper, but he misses a lot. He eliminates in every room and only sometimes outside. How can I train him to go only outside?"

A: First, let me just say that he is only a baby and his muscle control is not strong enough to control his physical urges on his own yet. However, it is never too soon to start the training process. Also, just a note of advice, if he is not neutered, consider having that done when he is old enough to do so. It will help with training, behavior, and general health for his future. For now, the best things to use when housetraining are a crate (big enough only to stand up, turn around and lay down,) a collar and leash, some treats, and definitely time and patience. Never make his crate (which he will regard as his "personal space/den" as a punishment.) It should always be his sanctuary and happy place.
It is very important to pick a spot for your dog to eliminate. Using the same spot each time will help the puppy recognize that this is where he should go, and will recognize the smell from going there before.
I never recommend puppy pads or paper training. If you want your dog to always go potty in the house forever in one dedicated area, this method will work. If you want to train the dog to eliminate outside forever, that method will either not work. I always tell my clients to "think like a dog!" It sounds funny, but it works. For instance, hitting a newspaper beside him when he misses the exact spot will confuse him. What he's thinking is, "Well, this is the area that I thought was okay, but now I'm getting scolded." He doesn't know that paper or a certain area inside the house is the acceptable area. Why? Because he's a dog. Dogs often times cannot tell the difference between paper and a floor or rug. All they know is its ok to go potty in the house so any area under the roof seems acceptable to him. So, never use paper training and start from the beginning using only "it's only acceptable to potty outside." (Keeping in mind there WILL be several "accidents" inside the house due to his immature muscle control and the simple fact that he's a baby.) Also, trying to paper train a dog and then trying to switch him to going outside is confusing for him. He's thinking, "well, it was okay to go in the house before so why is it not okay now?" Take him out on a leash and give the command, "Go Potty" or "Hurry up." Whatever you choose is fine but be consistent with that command. As he is eliminating, praise him. As soon as he's finished, really praise him! If he tries to play when you take him out to eliminate, ignore him and give him the go potty command. (Don't mix being outside to play vs. outside to go potty during potty training.) If he just won't go, bring him back into the house, put him in his crate (DO NOT punish him, but just put him into it.) 10 or 15 minutes later, take him back outside on leash and give the command. Keep him on a regular feeding schedule. He will usually have to eliminate around 10 to 15 minutes after eating. Until he is at least around 4 to 6 months of age, he will need to eliminate immediately after awakening, eating, napping, or playing.
Before you know it, he'll be trained and the both of you will be happy. I know potty training can be frustrating and a bit time consuming but just try to keep in mind that he wants to please you just as much as you want him to be a good dog.

Q: "My puppy won't eat dog food-only table food. I know puppy food is best for her, but she will eat only people food and her treats. What should I do?"

A: You're definitely correct about dog food being much better for her. It doesn't sound like she has any trouble with her teeth, mouth or swallowing, so it really sounds behavioral. What you should do is go into Operation Tough Love! You need to stick with a decent brand of puppy food and water. That's it. She'll get 3 feeding times per day. Put her food down and lead her to it. If she hasn't started eating it after 15 minutes, pick it up and she doesn't get anything (including treats) until her next scheduled feeding time. Repeat again and again. What this will tell her is, "If I don't eat this and eat it now, I'm not going to eat!" It may take a few days but don't give in and give her what she wants OR change the dog food thinking she's going to starve. She won't. If we keep changing their food they become more and more finicky eaters. She's training you to give her what she wants to eat. (It's very easy for dogs to do that to us humans without us even realizing it!) She will eat the puppy food when she gets hungry enough. This is a very common problem but it's one that is easily fixed.

Q: "I have two new kittens and 2 adult cats. One of the kittens seems to be suddenly peeing all over the house, especially on my bed and clothes. Why is this happening?"

A: There could be a few different reasons as to why this your kitten is urinating around the house. The first thing that needs to be evaluated is her physical condition. With cats, urinating around the house is a common symptom of a possible urinary tract infection or a bladder infection. Antibiotics from your vet can clear up the problem. If, after a vet visit, she is found to be healthy, then we are dealing with a behavioral problem. If that turns out to be the case, there are some things you can try to resolve the issue. Make sure to have at least one litter box per cat in the household. Cats are very clean and sanitary animals and sometimes, if the cat herself or even another cat in the house has used it, they refuse to use the box. Also, you can try changing the type of litter, such as changing from granular to sand (scoopable) and/or try a covered litter box if you don't already have one. Another thing you can try would be to place a litter box on the spot that the cat frequently, inappropriately uses. Then, slowly move the litter box back to the regular spot about an inch a day until back in place. Keep the litter boxes as clean as possible at all times. As I said, you need to have any physical ailments ruled out before looking to behavioral.

Because we weren't provided with a magical crystal ball, it is nearly impossible to accurately diagnose any condition, injury, or illness over the phone or internet. If and when we are presented with questions such as the examples I've provided, we always recommend a visit to the veterinarian. Although, in some cases, the pet owner cannot afford even the cost of the initial office visit. So, we do our best to offer information so the pet parent can check for certain symptoms on their own and if found, try certain home remedies if applicable.
In any medical field of work, we all do our best to help not only the patient, but the people who love and care for them. Therefore, the next time you call or email your human or veterinary doctor with questions and symptoms, keep in mind that we will do our best to offer you only possible ideas of what the problem may be, but with the fullest intentions of helping you as best as we can with the information we're provided. We are in our chosen profession to help animals and their people because we truly care.