Innovative Skincare (iS) Clinical Youth Serum: Product Results VS. Manufacturer's Claims

Maybe I've been in the beauty business too long and I've gotten a bit jaded. But when I see product called "Youth Serum", I can hardly suppress the giggles and snarky comments. We live in an age of some very advanced cosmetic chemistry, don't get me wrong. There are some downright miraculous products out there. But when a beauty product passes $100 mark - I want it to knock my socks off, not just have a catchy, yet mildly irritating (and patronizing) name. Innovative Skincare (iS) Clinical Youth Complex, currently available only through dermatologists, is one of those products that promises the world but delivers an anti-wrinkle cream very much like dozens of other (cheaper) skin creams on the market.

Here are the claims.

"iS CLINICAL® YOUTH COMPLEX provides rapid wrinkle reduction, while rebuilding skin at the deepest level. YOUTH COMPLEX provides clinically-proven results in hours, days and weeks."

If it could rebuild your skin, it would be classified as a drug or a medical procedure. Can iS Clinical Youth Complex make your skin appear more firm and smooth? Yes. But that's not quite the same thing.

"New YOUTH COMPLEX immediately increases hydration within the skin to "plump" fine lines and wrinkles, promotes controlled exfoliation to smooth and refine skin, while encouraging the production of the skin's key support structures like collagen and elastin."

All of these things are true of Youth Complex and several hundred other anti-wrinkle moisturizers that cost far less.

"Initial results from an on-going, independent clinical study indicate that 97% of the women and men tested noticed significant improvements in their overall skin quality (wrinkle reduction, texture and firmness) within ONE HOUR."

Humectants, like those in Youth Serum, attract and bind water to the skin almost immediately, which would plump and soften the skin almost as soon as it's applied. Again, this is true of many moisturizers.

"This break-through anti-wrinkle formula features, a unique bio-complex of high potency, pharmaceutical grade antioxidants, growth factors and natural hydrators, which encourage rapid cellular turnover, while enabling the production of new dermal support structures, preventing DNA damage and optimizing cellular metabolism."

Now we're getting into dangerous territory claim-wise. The ingredient description certainly sounds very innovative but the ingredient list itself doesn't hold up to the marketing. Hyaluronic acid (the main ingredient), panthenol (vitamin B) and Willow Bark (an calming agent) have been used for decades in skin care treatments. Peptides, like Tripeptide-1, are slightly more recent, coming into the skin care (cosmeceutical) market within the last decade. But even that ingredient is found in many firming and anti-wrinkle skin creams.

"Measured Results in . . ."

"Hours - Immediate smoothing occurs when the hyaluronic microspheres in penetrate and nestle within wrinkles. They attract and hold moisture to plump up the wrinkle from within."

This is true. But hyaluronic acid is in loads of skin care products for a fraction of the price. You can even purchase pure hyaluronic acid serum from companies like Cellex-C and Skinceuticals.

"Days - Botanical acids in promote controlled exfoliation, smoothing and refining the surface of the skin, while penetrating bio-nutrients strengthen the bridge between the epidermis and dermis, supporting the skin beneath for a firmer appearance."

Also true, and true of any product containing a chemical exfoliant like retinol or AHA's. Sugar and fruit extracts are also readily available in several skin care lines.

Weeks - Long term results are achieved when the proprietary tri-peptide copper growth factors and active botanical extracts in rebuild the dermal structure, continuing to improve and maintain the skin's youthful appearance.

Copper and peptide technology for improving skin tone is well documented. Neutrogena, SkinBiology, and several other lines make extensive use of them at a far more attractive price.

iS Youth Complex's formula is based on sound skin care science. Using "dehydrated hyaluronic acid" and other novel versions of staple ingredients is intriguing but doesn't really justify the price. The moisturizer soaks in well and feels lovely on the skin, yet it didn't outperform my current favorite products in any category. This treatment falls into the "Your mileage may vary" category - so get a sample first before splurging on it.