Knit Socks from the Toe Up

I used to think that knitting socks was supposed to be really hard. Eventually I got some sock yarn that was too good to resist so I had to try. Eventually I worked out what I think is the easiest way to knit socks and I really enjoy them. My socks are warm in the winter and fun shorties in the summer. Knitting socks from the toe up will allow you to fit the socks to your feet. My feet are short so most socks seem to be too long. Also I hate to have left over balls of yarn. So I try to knit it all into my projects. If I knit a sweater I start at the top and if I knit socks I start at the toe. I have put together the techniques which I feel are the easiest to do and give the best results. I have some pictures that you can check out to see the tricky spots. If the picture doesn't show up, just click on the picture that shows until you find the one that fits your example. Remember that it is your knitting and if you don't want to use these techniques, that is okay. You still might find some ideas here that will be useful.

Supplies You need some sock yarn, knitting needles, stitch holders or extra set of double points, scissors or thread cutter, a yarn needle and a measuring device like a tape measure or ruler.(see picture) The selection of yarn and needles needs some elaboration.

Yarn All kinds of pretty variegated sock yarn is available right now. While it makes neat socks, if you want the stripes in your socks to match, you should buy two balls of yarn. Then pull the yarn out from both centers until you find a place that the color order and length match. Cut the extra off. It might help to try to match the outer end at the store when you buy the yarn. I have begun to knit my socks with white heels and toes. That way I am sure to have enough yarn for two pairs of socks out of two skeins of sock yarn. The yarn wrapper should say how much yarn it takes for a pair of socks, but it doesn't deal with matching the stripes. Another option which is a lot of fun is to knit six or seven rounds near the top of the sock with a fluffy yarn. The important thing when you are picking out yarn, is to be sure that the care instructions are the same for all the yarns that you are using. Mostly I wash my socks out by hand, but can put them in the machine to wash. I prefer to air dry them. But all this can be a personal choice.

Needles I prefer to use two 16 inch circular needles as well as a set of double points in the same size for each sock. By the way I knit each sock to a stopping point and then knit the mate to the same spot. That way if I am working in a solid color everything is exactly the same size. The stopping points are at the end of the toe, which I knit in white; to the beginning of the heel; to the end of the heel; and then to the end of the cuff. You can slip the work onto stitch holders while you work the other sock or onto a spare set of the same size double points. Picking out the size needle you want to use is a personal decision. By experience, I look at the size recommended on the yarn and then use a size smaller. You don't want the knitted material to be too stiff or it will make uncomfortable socks. If it is too thin, the socks won't be comfortable. When choosing circular needles, I try to use two different colors. I use them because it is easier to avoid stitches slipping off with circular needles.

Beginning at the toe With circular needles E-Cast on 12 stitches. To do an E cast on, begin with the usual slip knot loop and then wrap the ball end of the thread around your thumb counter clockwise and bring the needle up through the thread from your wrist towards your fingers. (see picture or for different directions directions visit www.KnitPicks.com)
Knit 1 row.
Scoot the stitches to the center of the circular needle. Turn work upside down and pick up 11 stitches between the stitches above with the other needle. (see arrow in picture for example of where to pick up one of the stitches) One needle will have 11 stitches and one will have 12. The even numbered row will become your heel and the odd numbered row will become the top of the sock. Scoot the stitches to the middle of the needle when you have completed it and knit 2 rounds. Be careful to keep the stitches on the same needle that they start out on. That means that you will use a different circular needle on each set of stitches. I have found it helpful to use different colored circular needles. That way I am careful to be knitting the stitches off the same color, I am knitting them on to. Another way to check is to be sure that when you pull the needle that you will be working with, the needle that you want to work from should move in the stitches. Be careful that you don't pull the needle out of the stitches if it is the wrong needle.

Increases You will increase 4 stitches each round. Because I want no holes where I increased, I reach down with my knitting needle in the stitch next to where I want the increase to be, and knit through the bar at the bottom of that stitch. Increase 1 stitch at the stitch next to the beginning and the end stitch on each needle. I do this every other round - 4 times. (19 stitches and 20 stitches) Then every third row - 4 times. (27 stitches and 28 stitches) If you have a long thin foot, you might want to begin with fewer stitches and continue increasing every other row until you get a stocking that fits over your toes.

If your foot needs a wider sock than the numbers I have used, just continue increasing until it fits. By all means try it on. Move your stitches to a stitch holder or spare set of same sized needles at this point and repeat on the second sock. Then continue on it to the next stopping point. Change to variegated yarn now, if that is your plan. There are 27 stitches for the top half of the sock on one needle. Work them as knit 6, purl 3, knit3, purl3, knit 3, purl 3, knit 6. That will give room for the sock to pull itself in around your feet. If you have had to add stitches divide them between the two edges by increasing the number of knit stitches at either side. Continue working rounds until the sock reaches the right length to be ready to add a heel. Kind of draw a line down from the top of your foot in front of the ankle. For me that is71/4 inches from toe. End before you work the heel stitches. (those that have no ribbing) Try it on and check the fit to be sure you like it. Then move the sock onto spare needles or stitch holders and repeat everything for the mate.

Turn heel For now you are going to ignore the stitches with the ribbing, so move them to the center of their circular needle. Divide the remaining stitches by three. Put the first third on the first double pointed needle and the last third on the last needle. Put the remaining stitches on the center needle. For me the division is 9 10 9. Knit the first needle and change threads at that point if you are making a different colored heel. Continue to knit across the second and third needle. Turn the work around. With the yarn in front slip the first stitch, while wrapping the thread over the needle from the back to the front. Pull the thread tight and purl back across all three needles. Be careful this stitch has to be pulled tight or there will be holes. Turn the work and again you are going to slip the stitch while wrapping the thread over the needle this time from front to back. All of these stitches must be pulled tight and will have two threads close together on the needle. Continue working the heel stitch stopping before the wrapped stitches. You will work progressively fewer stitches on the first and third needle. While you work across the center needle, catch the other thread in your work if you changed colors. When you have no stitches left to work on either side, change to the colored thread and knit three complete rounds. Knit the wrapped stitches as one stitch and be sure to pull the tight so that you will have no holes in your heel. Change thread back and begin to work wrapped stitches up each side increasing one stitch each time. To be more specific - Knit the center stitches and one stitch on the side. Turn and slip while wrapping that stitch. Purl the center stitches and one stitch on the side and turn while wrapping.. Then knit the center stitch and two on the side, Turn while wrapping. And so on. When you have included all the stitches change to your regular thread which you caught in your knitting, and knit a complete round, switching the heel stitches back to a circular needle.

Cuff Add stitches evenly spaced to make 30 stitches on each needle. Work in knit 3 purl 3 with the ribbing on the top of the sock continuing into the cuff. You should not add any stitches in that ribbing, but either side of the ribbing is an ideal spot. Use the same increase that you used for the toe. Spread the other increases around the remainder of the socks. I have found it works easiest if you move a few stitches so that you begin a needle with the first stitch of a knit three group and end with the last stitch of a purl three group. Repeat for 4 ¼ inches
Bind off Because I don't want the top of the sock to dig into my skin I use this method which is quite stretchy. Making all stitches loosely, knit 1 slip 1 for 1 round. Then Knit 2 together. Slip stitches back to left needle Purl two together , slip stitches back to left needle Repeat until all the stitches are gone. Cut the thread and pull it through the last stitch. Then thread the end through your yarn needle and weave it in.

Enjoy your socks.