Kochi: The Heart of Kerala

As the largest city of the southwestern state of Kerala, Kochi is exemplary of all that makes that region special. Although the state is mostly Hindu, it is only just barely so. One-third of Keralans are Christian, and another 14 percent are Jains, Moslems, Sikhs, Jews, Buddhists, and even Zoroastrians, making the state one of India's most polygot places. It is also among the most developed, with a 94 percent literacy rate. Combined with its great natural beauty and convenient location, Kochi becomes the best place to base a vacation in one of India's loveliest and most visitor-friendly destinations.

Getting There
Those already in India will likely arrive at Kochi by train. It is well connected to Goa and Mumbai to the north, and Bangalore and Hyderabad to the west. Those flying there will arrive at Kochi International Airport. The cheapest option is by bus, but this is not recommended as breakdowns are not uncommon and even the predicted travel time from Mumbai is at least 12 hours.

Walking Tour
One of the most pleasant things to do upon arrival in Kochi is to take a stroll around the Fort Kochi district. This is the older part of the city, and is now a tourist enclave that is partly isolated from the rest of the city by geography. It pays to stay there from the beginning, as those staying in the main part of the city will find themselves commuting back and forth for most of their stay.

The heritage of Kochi is a deep one. Local merchants began trading with the Arabs and Chinese six centuries ago, which drew Europeans to them like flies to honey: first the Portuguese, then the Dutch, and finally the English. The Portuguese left behind such early 16th Century monuments as Pallipuram Fort and St. Francis Church. The latter was the resting place of Vasco de Gama after his passing in 1524, although his body was later moved to Lisbon. As you wind through the city streets from one historic site to the next, you will almost certainly pass by boys playing cricket in the public parks. The waterfront is a great place to stop for a bite to eat: pick out your own catch of the day, most likely caught at one of the manually-powered Chinese fishing nets directly behind the fish market, and then take it to a nearby grilling and broiling shack, where it will be cooked especially for you.

Kathakali
One of the more interesting cultural features of Kochi is the opportunity to take in a Kathakali performance. This is a traditional form of dance in Kerala, featuring elaborately made-up performers. It is a standard feature of Kathakali theaters to allow tourists to come early and watch the performers put on their make-up. Seeing at least one of these shows is a do-not-miss feature of a Kochi visit.

Getting Out
Pleasant though it is, unless it is your ambition to relax, take in ayurvedic treatments, and do little else, Kochi will likely run out of diversions after a few nights. However, it is the ideal place to get out to other destinations, in particular the backwaters of Kerala or the beaches further south, such as Cherai.

Sources: Personal experience.