While timing of a seeded lawn is critical, a sod lawn can be installed almost any time of year. Ideal times for sodding cool season lawns, however are late summer and early fall or in the early spring. Sodded lawns are especially useful in areas difficult to establish because of traffic or on a slope where erosion can be a problem. Don't be taken in by people who suggest a mere leveling of the soil and laying the sod as-is in seeding a lawn. The extra time and effort given to soil preparation will pay dividends later on. If you are replanting an old lawn it is better to remove the old lawn by stripping rather than tilling the old sod into the soil. It often takes a long period of time for the old sod to decompose and the tough grass makes leveling and other soil preparation activities more difficult.
There are sod cutters available at rental centers to help strip the old lawn. Once the old lawn is stripped or if in a new area, level the yard and add organic material. Peatmoss and aged manure are the most common available sources of organic matter. Add a two to four inch layer of organic matter to the soil and thoroughly mix by spading or by use of a rotary tiller. The soil should be tilled a depth of six to eight inches. If the soil is hard and dry, water the soil and allow to dry until it is workable. Do not work wet soil. After the organic matter is mixed, level the soil again using a rake, then a drag leveler. Make the grade from one to one and one-half inches below the sidewalks and driveways so the sod will fit evenly and not above these permanent structures. Work in a lawn fertilizer high in phosphorus into the soil to a depth of two or three inches. New sod will require nitrogen fertilizer for growth and phosphorus for fast root development. In the final step of leveling, roll the bed with a roller one-third full of water.
Sod usually comes in rolled stripes six to nine feet long and two feet wide. When it is delivered, utilize it as soon as possible. In hot weather do not store rolls for more than a day; in cooler weather two to three days should be the maximum. Keep the edges of the rolls from drying by lightly sprinkling with water. Lay the sod on damp soil, but make sure it is not so wet as to cause depressions and compaction of the soil as the sod is being laid. Begin laying sod along a straight edge such as a sidewalk or driveway. If the lawn is of an irregular pattern, string a line across it and begin laying sod on either side. Place the loose end of the rolled sod against the previously laid strip.
Pieces of sod should be staggered much like laying bricks. Along curved edges or unusual shaped areas, cut pieces of sod with a sharp knife to fit the area. When laying sod on a slope, start from the bottom and work up hill. Lay the sod so it runs perpendicular to the slope and stagger the joints to minimize erosion. In some instances the sod may have to be staked in place to keep each piece in place on the slope. After the sod is completely installed, roll it with a water-filled roller to insure good contact between sod and roots and the underlaying soil.
Roll it perpendicular to the length of the strips. Improper watering after installation is probably the most common cause of failure in a sodded lawn. Water enough to soak the soil to a depth of six to eight inches. Then water daily for about two weeks. Once the lawn begins to knit with the soil, gradually approach a normal watering schedule. Avoid heavy foot traffic until the sod lawn is established. Stakes tied with string and brightly colored cloth strips may assist in detering traffic.
How to lay sod, Lawn Gardening & Landscaping by Fran Feldman.
Published by Cynthia Boyd
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