Le Vrai Provence

Ask a person to name a city in the South of France and they will invariably respond with Monte Carlo - even though Monaco is not in France, and Monte Carlo is not a city- Cannes, Nice or St. Tropez. This may be because the 'chic' have been flocking to this region for 30+ years, thanks to the beautiful Brigitte Bardot, and her 1956 movie, "Et Dieu Crea La Femme" (And God Created Women). Since Brigitte came on the silver screen, the Cote D'Azur has become a fashionable destination for sun seeking travellers, mainly due to the promise of good weather in Nice, the possibility of spotting a 'movie star' at the Cannes Film Festival or perhaps losing your home while playing Black Jack beside Aristotle Onassis in Monte Carlo. The cities mentioned above are beautiful and have many distractions to offer a traveller, however, there are drawbacks. The tourist population is very high, bringing with them higher prices. The average person would not be able to enjoy the real pleasures of the area. But this is not the real Provence ("Le Vrai Provence"). The real thing is situated to the north and west of the Cote D'Azur. To show that there is more to the south of France than Nice and Cannes, towns and cities in two regional areas, or departments, will be discussed in detail. We will be looking at items such as: accommodation, transportation, topography etc. Also, relevant information such as Provencal history and culture will be summarized. By outlining such information, it will be clear that the real Provence is more than high priced glitz and glamour, and that the region can be considered a destination which offers something for every kind of traveller.

The Country: France

France, or Republique de France, as it is officially known, is located in Europe. It has an area of 543 965 sq km (210 026 sq miles), making it one of the largest European nations. It is bordered by Spain to the south-west, Italy to the south-east and Switzerland, Germany and Belgium to the east. It is surrounded by various bodies of water which include: The English Channel to the north, the Bay of Biscay to the west and the Mediterranean Sea to the south. The population of France is nearly 58 million people, with 85% of the population being native born, and mostly white. Foreign born groups include: Italians, Spaniards, Portuguese, West Africans and North Africans. The official language is French, but, there are many French dialects spoken (e.g. Provencal, Breton), and various other languages, such as: Arabic, German, Italian, Dutch.

The national anthem of France is "La Marseillaise" (The Song of Marseilles). The tri-coloured flag, was adapted in 1789 by Louis XVI when he was forced to add the red and blue of Paris to the white flag of the ruling Bourbon Family. The official religion, and the most prevalent (75%), is Catholicism, but many other religions are practiced - these include: Protestant, Sunni Muslim and Judaism. The currency was the the French Franc (FRF) until the Euro was introduced in 1999. To enter France a Canadian citizen only requires a valid Canadian passport. The time zone of the country is +1GMT, and the Prime Meridian runs down the centre of the country. Paris, the capital of France, is perhaps the most beautiful city in the world, and certainly one of the most visited cities by tourists. Other major cities in France include: Marseilles (the second largest), Lyon, Nice, and Bordeaux.

France has gone through many political changes since the days of Louis XVI. In 1789 France experienced a revolution that not only changed the country but the world. Since 1792 France has been a Republic with some notable gaps. In the years that followed the country went through some major political upheaval and constitutional change. Events such as the Jacobite Reign of Terror in the late 18^th century, the Napoleonic Years, the Revolution of 1848, and the rule of Napoleon III saw changes to the positical makeup of France. Established by the constitution of 1956, France is in what is considered the Fifth Republic.

The Region: Provence

Provence is located in the south-east region of France. The region is bordered by Italy to the east, the Mediterranean Sea to the south, the Rhone River to the west and roughly by the Massif Du Pelvoux to the north. There are six departments which makeup Provence: Bouches du Rhone, with Marseilles as its capital, Vaucluse (Avignon), Var (Toulon), Alpes de Haute Provence (Digne-les-Bains), Hautes Alpes (Gap), Alpes Maritimes (Nice).

The topography can be described as varied. It ranges from mountainous in the north-east to the Mediterranean coastal area called the Camarque. The topography is more clearly seen in the art work of such great Impressionist painters as Cezanne, who was born in Aix-en-Provence, Van Gogh and Paul Signac. The contrast between the rocky hills of the region and the flat farmland is displayed in the work "Peach Tree in the Crau" by Vincent Van Gogh, or "Mont Sainte-Victoire" by Cezanne. While Van Gogh displays the contrast of the topography, Cezanne outlines the sunny makeup of the climate. His paintings show the heat of a summer day, the clear light of the day, so cherished by the painters, while at the same time displaying the chalky soil, and lush brushy flora of Provence.

Modern transportation to the major cities started in 1855 when the Paris - Avignon railway was built. The next major development to the transportation system came in 1970 when the A-6 and A-7 motorway linked Paris and the South. This route later became known as L' autoroute du soleil (highway of the sun). The final link to Paris came in 1981 when the TGV (Train a Grand Vitesse) linked Paris to Nice. This train is one of the fastest in the world and travels at nearly 300kph (185mph). The trip to Avignon from Paris now takes less than four hours. The roadway infrastructure is similar to Canadian roads, and most areas are accessible by car, or coach (stations are situated in all major towns and cities). Provence has two major airports:

Aeroport International Marseille - Provence and Aeroport International Nice - Cote d'Azur.

The type of accommodation is even more varied than the topography. Accommodation can range from rural gites (bed & breakfast), to four star hotels. If a person wished to spend more time (e.g. one month) in the region, renting a villa or an apartment would be wise. Youth hostels are also available for the student on a budget. Finally, Provence has extensive, and highly organized camping facilities. They offer a variety of option from camp/caravan sites to nature area and farm camping. Peoples idea of suitable accommodation is as different as their fingerprints. Provence has lodging for any comfort level, in relation to amenities and budget.

It is recommended that you explore Provence on your own, however, if you like the idea of a guide who can help you take advantage of the area, there are many tours that run through Provence. Most tours are active in nature, hiking, walking and biking, these are highly recommended since you experience the land, its smells, colours and textures, more personally, and you get better sense of the people who live there. However, guided tours are available. Some of the major tour operators that offer packages specifically in Provence or as part of a tour include: Golden Escape (guided tours specifically for retired tourists), Globus Tour, Trafalger Tours, Con-Tiki (for the 18-35 year old groups) and Tour Chanteclere. The Bouches du Rhone department puts out a publication outlining various activity tours and holidays ranging from 2 days to one week. The brochure is called "Partir En Provence" and is distributed, for free, by the French Tourist Board (30 St. Patrick St. # 700, Toronto). Whatever kind of tour a traveller may wish to take, whether it be an active 18 day biking tour, or a more leisurely mini-van tour they will not be disappointed.

The history of the region dates back to the ancient Greeks. It was in 600BC that Greek traders found the port of Marseille, bringing with them the native olive trees and vines now so important to the culture of Provence. The first settlement was established in 122BC after a victory over the indigenous Gaul Tribes. The town was called Aquae Sextiae, and is now the beautiful city of Aix-en-Provence. Some 60 years later Julius Caesar, upon subduing the Gaul tribes of the region, imposed Imperial Rule over his new province. The years that followed saw a mass influx of Romans settlers to the region. These settlers were primarily retired Roman soldiers who came to Provencia Romania because of the free land given to them as compensation for service to the state. Building started in earnest, the remnants of which can still be seen today in Gard (Pont du Gard), and the Roman theatre in Orange which is still used today. In 536AD Provence came under the rule of the Franks. Five hundred years later it was annexed by the Holy Roman Empire, but it wasn't until 1481 that Provence became part of France. In 1388 the eastern part of Provence, known as the County of Nice, came under the rule of the House of Savoy; 478 years later (1860) Nice was returned to France, giving Provence the geography it possesses today.

Religion has played a major role in the history of the Provence. It is believed that the Boat of Bethany landed at Les-Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer. The boat carried many religious figures including: Lazarus, Mary Magdalene and Mary Jacobe (sister to the Virgin Mary). The town is still there and is visited not only for its religious connections, but also for its vast beaches. Provence also played a role in Catholic history. It was in 1309 that Clement V was given the Papal Crown, making him the first French Pope; and in 1316 Pope John XXII did the unthinkable by moving the Papacy to Avignon. This is the only time in history when the Pope of the Catholic Church did not sit in Rome. The Papal Palace is still in Avignon and it is a major tourist attraction.

Finally, religious persecution was not unusual to Provence. In 1545 the fervor reached a climax when the Protestant villages of the Luberon Mountains were besieged and destroyed and the occupants killed. These villages still exist. They are Menerbes, Bonnieux, Lacoste, Oppede-le-Vieux and Buoux.

Ruins of the past history of Provence can be found all over the region. But history is more than just ruins; it is the people and the contributions the inhabitants make to the area, the country and the world. Cezanne was born in Aix-en-Provence and went on to become a major contributor to the Impressionist movement; Paul Signac, and Vincent Van Gogh moved to Provence and created some of the most memorable works of art (and the most expensive) the world has ever known. The writer Colette moved to St. Tropez in 1925, and writers such as F. Scott Fitzgerald and Somerset Maugham all published books that were set in Provence. The literary influence of Provence was not limited to the 1920's though. In fact, Provencal literature dates back to the 9^th century. At this time monks composed and translated the legends of the saints to the language of the masses. The Provencal troubadour poetry tradition began 12^th century and reached its zenith in the works by de Born, Daniel and Bornelh. By the 13^th century Provencal (the language) was considered the most suitable for 'lyric poetry'. The Provencal language, which traces its roots to the Roman era, was spoken extensively until the 14^th century. After the incorporation of Provence into France in 1481 the language began to wane in use. It was not until Frederic Mistral, in the 19^th century, led a movement to reestablish the literary standard it once enjoyed. In 1993, the French government instructed schools to start teaching the Provencal language.

The tourist history of Provence began in the 18^th century when the English writer Tobias Smollet wrote about his travels in the south of France. It was not long before the English aristocracy began to winter in the south of France. The season would last from November to March since hot weather was considered unhealthy. It wasn't until some American tourists persuaded one hotel owner to stay open for the summer that Provence became a year round destination. Although the French people knew of the region, Provence did not become a major destination until 1936 when the French government introduced the two week paid holiday in August. It was then that northern France began to discover what many foreign tourists already knew. The final invasion began after the release of the 1956 movie, "And God Created Women". Brigitte Bardot swimming naked on the shores of St. Tropez made the world take notice of the south of France. By 1988 visitors to Provence reached 20 million.

To list all the major attractions could fill a book. Listed below are some of the sights that may give an idea of the variety and richness of the possibilities. The Pont-du- Gard would top this list. The 'bridge' is actually a Roman aquaduct built in 19BC. The Pont was part of a larger system designed to carry water from a spring near Uzes to Nimes (some 50 km way). Tourists are able to experience the engineering marvel first hand since it is possible to climb to the top of the duct and walk across. There are no hand railings and the bridge is 5m (15ft) wide, about 120m (360ft) long, and 50m (150ft) high.

Fontaine de Vaucluse is a town in the Vaucluse department. The town is bordered to the north by a sheer 230m cliff However, as impresive as these cliffs are they pale in comparison to the mystery of the source of the Sorgue River. The 'source' is like an opening in the cliff side with water flowing out. The rate at which it comes out can best be described as an explosion of water. The interesting thing that this 'explosion' of water is seasonal. It reaches its zenith in the early spring when the water flows at 200 cubic metres per second, while at other times of the year the source looks like a pool of water down a large opening. The contrast is breath taking, and a trip to view this sight is very popular and highly recommended.

Six kilometres south lies the small village of L'Isle-sur-la-Sorgue. The town derives its name from the Sorgue river runs through it and parts to form an island around the town, much the same way that Montreal is an island. The village is famous in the region for the Sunday market which takes over the town streets from 6am to noon. Everything is for sale at this time: antiques, food, wine, clothes and even the kitchen sink. It is like an open air mall, but with much more charm. After a morning of shopping nothing is better than a long lunch, and L'Isle has one of the best restaurants for this purpose. The Pescador Hotel lies in an area known at the Partage des Eaux. At this point the river Sorgue splits. For a fixed price of 150F ($40) you can enjoy a four course meal. If you choose to have the trout you will see your fish being brought to the kitchen by a sous-chef. Not an uncommon sight, however, this person had to cross the street and selected your enter from the cage in the Sorgue river where the fish are kept.

The last destination to be outlined is the city of Aix-en-Provence. The main sights you can experience at this city are of the moving kind. People watching from an outdoor table, in a quaint cafe, while sipping a pastis and enjoying the sun, may not appeal to all, but, for those people who enjoy this pastime nothing beats the cafes of Aix-en-Provence. Aix is also famous for the fact that Cezanne was born here; in his later years, he created some of the most famous paintings of the area around Aix. Apart from people watching, Aix boasts one of the most beautiful avenues in France. The Cours Mirabeau is in the heart of Aix and some say it

is its heart. Built in the late 17^th century, Cours Mirabeau and the cafes and bookshops that make up its facade, are a symbol of the cultured and sophisticated lifestyle of the inhabitants and the visitors.

Food, wine, sightseeing attractions, sports activities and a long and colourful past give Provence the unique distinction of being able to boast that there is something for everybody. The variety of activities, the value found in the cost of food, and accommodation, the accessibility from all areas of France and the world, can accommodate any traveller's comfort level, budget, sense of adventure and curiosity. The south of France is more than watching the rich and famous stroll past you while you sip your $12 coke and sit on a rocky beach. I hope one day you have the opportunity to experience, "le vrai Provence".

Bibliography

Baille, Kate, The Rough Guide: Provence and the Cote d'Azur, Penguin Books, London, 1993

Hofer, Hans (Director), Insight Pocket Guide: Provence, APA Publications, Hong Kong, 1993

Haberfeld, Caroline (Editor), Fodor's Affordable France, Random House, Toronto, 1993

Knowles, Rebecca (Editor), Let's Go: France, St. Martin's Press, New York, 1993

Partir en Provence (Brochure), Comite Departemental du Tourisme des Bouches-du-Rhone, 1997

Aix-en-Provence La Vivante (Brochure), L' Office du Tourisme, 1997

Useful Information: Region Provence, Alpes, Cote d'Azur, (Brochure), Comite Regional de Tourisme, 1997

Hotels: Region Provence-Alpes-Cote d'Azur (Brochure), Comite Regional de Tourisme, 1997