Leisurely Shelter Island in San Diego, California

Somehow the local folks of San Diego, California don't seem to distinguish much between "islands" and "peninsulas." Just about every "island" around town aren't islands at all. Coronado is not an island but a top-heavy northward jutting peninsula that closes off the southwest portion of the San Diego Bay from the Pacific Ocean. Point Loma, the hilly peninsula that protrudes southward to form the northwest shore of the bay, on the other hand, is a real peninsula that spouts off 2 man-made little peninsulas off its bayside: Harbor Island right by the San Diego International Airport and Shelter Island. They were really nothing but underwater shoals that laid in ambush of the local ships until the City decided to dump the surplus soil it dredged from the bay to clear the shipping channel on them, turning the previously useless shoals into commercial peninsulas housing luxury hotels, marinas, yacht clubs, ship garages and expensive restaurants.

Shelter Island, the 1.2 miles long peninsula with spectacular view of the entire north portion of the San Diego bay is the larger and further away from downtown of the two man-made peninsulas. You can see a lot of the area on a clear day... though a clear day on the San Diego coast can be a rare phenomenon these days. When I visited the area in the mid 90's it was so dry that you can count on great afternoon view from the many scenic view points around town. Nowadays, though, the place is more humid and that marine layer (low lying fog) that covers the coast tends to stick around a lot. And even when it isn't there, there is a built up layer of smog over downtown now that obscures things a bit. It isn't nearly as bad as what you see in Los Angeles to the north, but it is definitely there, sitting over uptown and downtown area (where the high rises are).

Anyhow, the south and west shores of Shelter Island constitutes what's known as the Shelter Island Shoreline Park, maintained by the Port of San Diego. It offers green lawns, free parking, public arts (sculptures), bike path, arbor, fishing pier, boat launch, a playground, benches and picnic tables, public restrooms, and even fire rings on its little stretch of beach between the boat launch and the fishing pier. It really is a great place to walk around being lost in your own thoughts while drinking in the view.

The walkway/bike path running along the shoreline is a favorite of local joggers and skaters. They come out at sunrise walking the whole thing... and they always have a smile and a 'Good morning ' for you. The western tip of the 'island' houses the Harbor Police Headquarter (there is a soda vending machine there for the thirsty among us). You can see the chic houses on the Playa district of the Point Loma peninsula and wonder if you had slipped into a wormhole and popped up off the shore of Italy. There's usually some research ships of the Scripps Institute of Oceanography mooring there, sporting a NOAA logo.

The Shoreline Park begins here with James Hubbell's fabulous mosaic fountain and continues east along the shore toward downtown. It's lined with many sculptures by local artist... and there's a big 2 ½ tons friendship bell in a wooden gazebo that was given to San Diego in 1960 by its sister city of Yokohama, Japan. I'm afraid you can't get to the bell itself since it's surrounded by a moat (and the Port Authority had removed the little bridge spanning it... Perhaps some visitors had enjoyed honing their percussion skills on the thing too much before?), but it's pretty good to admire from a distance.

Another main attractions along the park is the Tunaman's Memorial bronze sculpture depicting three fishermen tugging out a huge tuna from the sea. Tuna used to be one of San Diego's main export until we got out-marketed by Alaska, I think. Nowadays San Diego's little tuna fleet is no longer a big player, but memory of its glory days still lingers around the waterfront. On the north side of the street from the Memorial is the Shelter Pointe Hotel and Marina (AKA Kona Kai Resort) with its striking Andalusian architecture and a private yacht harbor. The Columbus Foundation's replica of the Nina was parked here for 2 weeks earlier this year during her visit to San Diego.

A bit east of the Memorial is a sandy children's playground complete with slides and swings for the little kids to work out their morning cereal on. For the big kids, though, the place to be is the Shelter Island Fishing Pier next door. It's a free for all place where anyone with a baited string can try their luck at. Even when the people aren't catching anything, it's still a great place to loiter around watching the many marine birds hunting after the local fish. There are information boards around where the prominent local birds are identified... The California gulls are everywhere flying around and squawking. The most active birds, I think, are the black skimmers. These smaller gull-like birds with black top and wings fly low over the water while skimming the waves with their beak. If you're lucky you might spot one of the long necked blue herons or the two-point-tailed little least terns, too. These are endangered species and they don't come near people much. At night, though, they like to hang around the little beach west of and at the public boat launch.

Looking out over the bay, the closest land you see is, of course, the northern tip of Coronado, known to the locals as Naval Air Station North Island. The base has been closed to the public since 9/11, which is too bad. At the east end of Shelter Island is a really great view of the skyline of downtown San Diego... especially near sunset. Boat watching is fun here... the huge cruise ships coming into port or off for their next destination, navy ships of many varieties going to or from a naval exercise, fishing boats, jet skis, row boats, the little bright yellow and orange harbor pilots, and if you're lucky, even some dolphins or one of those jumping fish that live in the area!

To the north of the big traffic circle where the Shelter Island Gazebo is America's Cup Harbor (San Diego hosted the yacht race in 1988, 92, and 95), home of some of the area's finest yachts. If you aren't up to paying the hefty bill for the pleasure of lounging at one of the 4 luxury resort hotels on 'the island' (I, for one, cant' afford to pay $17 for a plate of pasta!), the strip of Shelter Island Drive connecting it to mainland is lined with smaller restaurants and café along with the many boat shops and marine supplier outfits.

There isn't a public bus going into Shelter Island, though. From downtown San Diego, you can hop on bus 923 as it runs west along Broadway or north on Harbor Drive along the Embarcadero, then get off at the corner of Nimitz and Rosecrans to catch bus 28 going west on Rosecrans. It'll take you to Shelter Island Drive just 2 blocks from the base of the peninsula. I'm afraid you'll have to walk the rest of the way in... or hop on a hotel shuttle!

I wouldn't say that a visit to San Diego isn't complete without an evening spent on Shelter Island, but I would say that it is a unique experience worth making time for. If only the place has more shades to hide under (yours truly really doesn't do well in the summer heat), I'd go and hang out there all the time!