Life in Fort Irwin, California

Allen Butler
Life in Fort Irwin, California
Neighborhood: Fort Irwin
Fort Irwin, CA 92310

It's been almost ten years since I lived in Fort Irwin, California, out there all alone in the Mojave Desert, but I still have fond memories of the place. Some people might find it a bit isolated for their tastes (the nearest city is Barstow, 40 miles away), but I rather enjoyed it growing up there.


Fort Irwin is a quiet little place, out there all alone. If you are in the military, then you've most likely heard of Fort Irwin, the National Training Center (NTC). Chances are good you've even been there on rotation for training.

Living in Fort Irwin and coming to train at Fort Irwin are two very different things. For members of the OpFor (Opposing Force, the bad guys that soldiers from across the country come to train against), life and battle in the desert are constants, not a one-time thing. The same goes for their families (well, perhaps not the battle part).

Although it's been ten years, I doubt things have changed that much. There might be some new buildings, but I bet they are painted brown. (The only things not painted brown are the schools, and that only came about when I was last there. And not without protest from the current Commanding General at the time, General Leon J. LaPorte).

If there is one thing you are not going to like about Fort Irwin, it will most likely be the isolation. NTC, in its entirety, is larger than the size of Rhode Island. But the actual post makes up a tiny fraction of that, the majority of it is wide open spaces. Although there are things closer than Barstow (Yermo is about 30 miles away, yeehaw!), for the most part when you are in Fort Irwin there isn't anything else around. Fort Irwin also boasts the famous "Absolutely Nothing, Next 20 miles" sign.

When I lived there, the family would pretty much only leave the post once a month, on our monthly trip to Victor Valley where we would go to the mall. We would spend the whole day there, then we would go home, and wouldn't leave the post for another month. This changed of course when I wen to high school (near the aforementioned Yermo), so I got to leave post every day for a one hour bus ride to school and back.

If you aren't working on post, there are some entertainments. For shopping there is the PX, two Shoppettes and a Mini-Mall (This was when I was there, this could have changed by now). You also have an arcade at the PX, and a pretty nice bowling alley. (I spent quite a bit of time in both the arcade and the bowling alley as a kid). And you can't forget that constant of every military post, the Class Six store (for the civilians out there, that is where alcohol is sold on post).

Fort Irwin also its own movie theatre, showing movies a month behind the times at discount prices (used to be 3 bucks a ticket). And, somewhat impressive for a town of its size, they actually have their own radio station: KNTC - The Heat. I have fond memories of working at KNTC during the summer months, although I have to admit I rarely listened to it.

If there is one thing you are going to like about Fort Irwin, California, it is most like the isolation. Living in Fort Irwin is an experience different from any other I have had (and I've lived in quite a few places). It is a quiet place, out there in the middle of nowhere. There's little noise, none of the big city business going on around you. You walk for twenty minutes and you can't even remember that you are in a town anymore, its just as if you are out there in the lonesome desert alone.

Some people might not consider the desert to be beautiful, but I do. It has a quiet, calming grandeur all its own. There is something serene in looking out across vast expanses of empty, gently rolling desert sand. And the skies in the desert are something that must be seen to be believed. With hardly any precipitation clouds are at a minimum, creating vibrant blue skies on a daily basis. And at night, out there far away from anything, the stars are so clear that you can actually see them, almost like they used to in days of old.

But besides just the beauty of the desert, there is that quiet serenity that comes when you are out there. It is like a whole other world, detached from the hustle and bustle of this crazy modern world. A serenity I still often miss.

Of course there are always the trips to the mall in Victor Valley (still one of the most impressive malls I've ever been in. Not that I am a big mall-goer, but it was a nice day out for the family at the time). And there are interesting places around there. Camping at Death Valley (actually just on the other side of the mountains from Fort Irwin), the Calico Ghost Town in Yermo (my one and only Ghost Town experience. I wasn't greatly impressed but it was an interesting enough day).

I wish I could say more about Barstow, but we hardly ever went there. I did go to the Barstow Mall, once. It was dying, only a handful of stores, one of them having a closing sale. It was strange standing in that mall, the empty stores surrounding me, almost as if it were a chamber of death. I was most glad to get out of there.

If you ever find yourself, for whatever reason, living in Fort Irwin, California, you are in for a rare experience. Don't expect too much rain. Don't expect too much excitement. But do expect a quiet, steady desert life, where things don't change to much. Some people love it, some people hate it. Hopefully you'll be one to love it, because if you hate isolation it is hard to get away from it in Fort Irwin, California.

Published by Allen Butler

Allen Butler is a freelance writer and tutor living in Austin, TX.  View profile

7 Comments

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  • B4/3/2011

    wow, I was having some memories and read this, I grew up on ft. irwin in the late 80s n 90s, I remember that the mall in barstow was better than going to victorville until all the stores started closing down and then we HAD to go to lenwood or victorville to shop. I remember waking up early to catch the bus all the way to silver valley for school and damn if you ever missed that bus home. I remember all the crosses on 10 mile stretch and a few had my birthday. I remember tagging our own rock and of course the bowling alley even though a year before we left, they finally built a lil teen center. I liked living there and its weird that alot of people that I grew up with there...now live in texas lol. I do miss the dry heat though and the sounds of the coyotes.

  • Britney West3/24/2010

    Kind of the same story my fiancee just found out we're being stationed in Fort Irwin & so I decided 2 look it up. It sounds great 4 us but not good at all 4 our 2 year old son as active as he is he may die of boredom; we take him out for fun family activities every weekend. It'll definately be an adjustment... Ooh & what about snakes & all that other crazy desert wildlife...??? smh

  • Michael Abe1/11/2010

    July 21, 1981 was my first day with the 1/73rd Armor BN at Ft. Irwin, OPFOR, NTC....Barstow! We had MILES for war games and Sheridan tanks with T-62 vis-mods. Thanks for the ex-wife and the memories!

  • Dan12/26/2009

    I was stationed at Ft. Irwin from 1989-1993. Loved it. Frequent trips to Vegas, LA and San Diego as well. It is like a small town. Been back once since. A few changes, but same atmosphere.

  • Tracy9/8/2009

    My husband and I just found out we are going to be stationed out there.We are both from Nyc and we will find it quite an adjustment.I found it interesting that your family only left the base once a month to go to the mall,considering your a few hours drive from 3 major city (L.A.,Vegas and San diego) and 7 hours to San francisco.Also,being so close to the Grand Canyon,Sequoia Nation park and Yosemite Natiional Park.California is such a Beautiful place!I am weary about living in middle if the desert,but looking forward to exploring all these amazing areas.

  • brenda7/16/2008

    my space contact is : heart of a lady. could you give info. or direct us to someone who knows please. we are from calif. living in texas. in sept. going to ft.irwin, ca. family there wants to know if there is every evening & weekends off so the can visit. thanks, brenda

  • Rebecca4/24/2007

    WOW! I am about to move to Fort Irwin in a few months when my fiancee gets back from basic in Kentucky. We are getting married June 9 of this year! I love California!

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