Liverpool

I said I would report back after doing a Beatles tour. I have now made a Beatles pilgrimage, although this took up only one day of my three. I cannot recommend staying at Stu Sutcliffe's former digs by Sefton Park, but the Magical Mystery tour and Beatles Story on Albert Dock are excellent. The new bit of the latter in the awful new pier head ferry building doesn't offer much: a free photographic exhibition; a moving piece from Julian Lennon about White Feathers '" the posthumous sign between him and his father. The Fab4D show is not fab and not really to do with the Beatles. If you like having air whooshed up your skirt, being squirted and jolted around during a poor piece of animation, then go along. It doesn't bring the Beatles themselves alive to you at all. My gripe with both parts of the Beatles Story is that there is too much noise, and often you are listening to an audio recording whilst another blares next to you. Although informative, the Julia Baird audio guide isn't needed '" it should be her OR the other audio visual exhibits, which became overwhelming. Also irritating was all the tourists posing by the White Room, Abbey Road crossing, etc. The Mystery Tour started off a bit annoying as the guide used football and nationality to bait and embarrass passengers, but then it was excellent. The suburbs are interesting to see in their own right, particularly villagey Woolton; and as I saw its sign, knowing I was in John's home area, I felt rather excited.

I went round old favourites and was able to find some new areas. I found dishevelled areas of grand warehouses, lauded as a business district but wondered what sort of business might go on! I discovered another arts centre here '" the CUC, although I am unsure what goes on as they have no brochure and erratic opening times; and that the northern suburb of Waterloo has a community cinema which shows some arty films. I did find the kind of cafe I like '" but only one. The Quarter on Faulkner St is mentioned in several guidebooks, but it bills itself as being something really different. Norwich has about half a dozen cafes that would comfortably be friends (or rivals) with the Quarter, yet Liverpool's more chilled and bohemian joint stands alone.

Perhaps I would discover more if I spent longer in Liverpool, but I was pretty thorough. I also found Lark Lane, close to Sefton Park, but this is quite a short street of cafes and am not sure I would recommend it as a destination unless you live or have business close by.

I was shocked by the response of the Anglican cathedral when I lost my purse.

I accused Liverpool of not having an architectural style; I think I am wrong.

I said that Liverpool has no prevailing architect - I was thinking of the commercial and residential areas. Of course, the docks do have a master architect '" Jesse Hartley. I like his provision of booths for police and harbour masters.

My FACT theory has been proved right: the nightlife around swamps this arts cinema and media centre, making an evening film on a weekend quite an unpleasant experience. It still suffers from inappropriately mainstream programming '" the only arts cinema I know to show the A-Team - with a cafe that reminds me of the potato fast food chain, Spudulike. Yet there is still something that draws me to the building.

I queried whether Liverpool could truly claim to have more Georgian buildings than Bath. Liverpool defines Georgian by style, not who was on the throne (many of its 'Georgian' buildings are early Victorian by date). But I was struck by how far these suburbs go on. I have not found the end of them yet.

And neither am I done with Liverpool. No longer assessing it for a home - for now '" there is much to see and pleasure to be had. It seems a little more cheerful than Glasgow, its nearest twin, perhaps because of the red and white building materials, and perhaps this means I have a slight preference for Liverpool now?

The only other disappointment was that Liverpool is becoming more like Manchester, and the business district , Liverpool One and waterfront are losing all that's good about Liverpool and giving in to its rival neighbour and the not very inspiring spirit of the times.