Living in a Jungle Town on the Yucatan Peninsula

Carolyn McFann
The jungles of Mexico are a history and nature lover's dream. Being an artist and photographer, I spent two years living in a small town called Playa del Carmen. Now, it is a thriving tourist attraction, but ten years ago it was less well-known and growing fast. What once were plots of thick jungle brush on the outskirts of town, were cleared and turned into plots of land for residents, luxury resorts for tourists, and shops. Situated on the coast of the Caribbean Sea, "Playa" (as it's called by its residents) is an eclectic mix of cultures. The descendents of the Mayan native Mexican people, Europeans, North Americans and others all live and work there. The main tourist area is downtown Playa del Carmen, especially Fifth Avenue (Quinta Avenida). Here, there are amazing restaurants, pubs, dive shops, money changing stations and vendors. It was a great place to walk, chat with the locals and have a bite to eat.

Some popular, handmade Mexican handicrafts can be found in town. Hammock makers will take orders for exquisite, handmade hammocks. Expect to dicker the price down, as that is normal practise with many vendors. I passed an area where they were being made once, and the weaving is complex but done completely by hand, using a shuttle. They come in a variety of colors and sizes, and are the preferred method of sleeping for many descendants of native groups. I ordered a really wide one, and it is more comfortable than most beds. In the tropics, many apartments have built-in hammock bolts, for hooking one's hammock to them indoors. These hammocks are very strong, and soft, and they get even softer the more that they are used.

If snorkeling or diving is your thing, shop around and see who has the best rates for day trips to the coral reef areas. There are many competing dive shops in town, and they offer many packages, even night diving and cave diving in the cenotes (brackish water bodies of water that lead to caves that run deep under the Yucatan, which is one big, porous slab of limestone. I never had the guts to go in the caves, but swimming in the crystal clear water of the cenotes was relaxing. Don't go into the caves alone, it is just too dangerous to do. It's best not to get injured in a foreign country, take it from one who knows.

Seeing ruins is a must if you are into history. There are archeological wonders throughout the Yucatan and beyond, very much worth seeing. My favorites were the ancient Mayan and Toltec cities of Chichen Itza, Tulum and Coba. Each has its own beauty and story. Make sure to take a trip with an official tour group (I like Apple Tours personally) because freelance tour guides tend to make things up, from what was told to me by an ex-guide. Tulum is a breathtaking site, on a cliff overlooking the ocean. The location was filmed in the movie, "Against All Odds" many years ago. Chichen Itza is a well preserved site with an amazing pyramid. I was fortunate enough to climb up its stairs to the top, and climb inside, to the top, where there are sculptures of a Chac Mool figurine and a jaguar with jade on it. The whole area is full of symbolism and is quite fascinating.

If you're in Mexico during a county fair, make sure to walk around in it. There were two that I attended. One was a circus and rides type affair. The other was more local, with booths offering Mexican sweets, household items for sale, and different events to watch. Watching native dances in beautiful, colored dresses and hearing the cheerful music, it was one of the highlights of my stay in the Yucatan. Different parts of Mexico have different dances, costumes and music. There used to be a great showcase of them at the nature park called XCaret, which is in itself a must see for anyone who loves history or nature.

Living in Mexico was a fascinating and wonderful experience. It felt like in some ways I was stepping back in time, which was a pleasant surprise. Coming back to the United States, I missed the daily walks on the beach, the snorkeling and the beauty. Ten years later, it is home to me at some level still. Anyone who wants adventure, natural beauty and sun needs to spend time there. Not just a day or two, but at least a week, to get the full feeling of the atmosphere, lovely people and the amazing food. It's the kind of experience that stays with you forever.

Published by Carolyn McFann

Carolyn McFann is a scientific and nature illustrator and writer from Chagrin Falls, Ohio. She is the owner of Two Purring Cats Design Studio.  View profile

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  • Brandon Bowman7/28/2009

    Great article! My wife and I honeymooned in Playa del Carmen two years ago. Chichen Itza and the cenotes were amazing! However, they wouldn't let us climb to the top of the pyramid...I'm jealous that you did!

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