Loja Province, Ecuador - an Intriguing Corner of the World

The people of Loja Province in southern Ecuador refer to their region as "el ultimo rincon del mundo", which loosely translated means "the most remote corner of the world." What I've discovered is that Loja Province, because of its mountainous terrain and proximity to the equator, is full of many remote little corners, each one surprisingly different and diverse.

I live in the city of Loja, the capital of Loja Province. Loja is only about 430 kilometers (267 miles) south of the equator, but (contrary to what many people "back home" in the U.S. think when I tell them that I in the tropics) it is not hot and humid here. Most days are pleasant and "spring-like", not too hot or too cold. That's because we are located in the Andes Mountains, about 2,100 meters (6,890 feet) above sea level. We are still exposed to the intense, equatorial sun, but at higher altitudes the warming effect of the sun is greatly reduced. Also, since we are so close to the equator, there is very little seasonal change. Altitude, rather than the time of year, tends to have a more dominant effect on local temperatures. In an area with dramatic altitude difference, such as Loja Province, the result is an incredible number of unique little "corners."

Traveling through Loja Province is an experience in temperature swings (especially if you are travelling in a vehicle without air conditioning). As one travels from valley to ridge top to valley, temperatures change, often abruptly. At the higher elevations it is cold, rainy and foggy. But if the fog clears, you are treated to breathtaking views of cloud-shrouded ridge tops that stretch on for miles. As you descend into the next valley, the outside temperature increases quickly. Each valley has its own temperature regime, depending on its altitude. Some places are hot, some not so hot. On long trips I find myself constantly putting on and taking off my jacket, and exchanging shoes for flip-flops. (photo)

Just south of the city of Loja are the valleys of Malacatos and Vilcabamba. Both valleys are located at an altitude of about 1,500 meters (4,921 feet). Since they are lower than Loja, the climate of these locations is markedly different. It is much warmer and has more of the "tropical" feel. Many plants such as banana and papaya that don't grow well in Loja flourish here. The valleys of Malacatos and Vilcabamba, are also weekend destinations for the residents of Loja. Vilcabamba is also well-known as the "Valley of Longevity", where it is believed that many people live to well over 100 years old (many think due to the mild climate). This has attracted many international visitors and there is a thriving expatriate community in the region, enjoying the peace and tranquility of this warm mountain valley.

To the west of the city of Loja is the valley of Catamayo. It is at a lower altitude (about 1,200 meters/3,937 feet) and is much warmer than Loja. However, Loja's airport is located here because it is a large valley and easier to fly in to and out of. The drive from Loja to Catamayo takes about 45 minutes along a relatively well-maintained highway. Sugar cane is the dominant crop in Catamayo and when you fly into and out of the airport you will see the vibrant green of the sugar cane fields juxtaposed against the dry, brown hills surrounding the valley.

The small town of Celica is located about 100 kilometers (62 miles) by road southeast of Catamayo. The climate in Celica is cooler due to its higher altitude (2,000 meters/6,562 feet). Prevailing wind patterns from the coast bring in lots of moisture. This results in thick fog which blankets the town most evenings. I have stayed in Celica on several occasions and usually end up walking through eerie, misty streets on the way back to the hotel after having dinner at one of the few restaurants in town. During the day the sun usually burns off the fog and the temperature is pleasant and spring-like (similar to the city of Loja).

Just east of Celica lies the small town of Pindal. Although only about 35 kilometers (22 miles) by road from Celica it's elevation is much lower (about 780 meters or 2,559 feet). Pindal is much warmer, and apparently the climate and soils of the region are perfect for growing corn. It is the dominant crop in the region, so much so that the town recently erected a huge sculpture of an ear of corn in the town square.

Travelling farther south from Pindal towards Peru the altitude drops even more and the landscape changes dramatically. Here, due to higher temperatures and lower rainfall, the "Bosque Seco" or Dry Forest dominates. One of the common trees in this region is the amazing ciebo tree which, with its long rubbery branches and fluted trunks, looks like something from a Dr. Seuss book (photo).

The city of Macará is located in this area, just on the border between Ecuador and Peru. At an altitude of about 450 m (1,476 ft.) it is much hotter than Loja or Celica. Macará is supposed to be one of the best places to eat ceviche (a delicious cold soup made of shrimp or other seafood marinated in lime juice), even though it is located about 125 kilometers (78 miles) from the coast. In this town you can find Peruvian ceviche (which is spicy) or Ecuadorian ceviche (which isn't). Both types are delicious, and ceviche is also one of the few things I've found that will actually cure a hangover. Macará is also a rice growing region and the rice from this area is very good quality and sold at a premium throughout Ecuador. Last time we were in Macará we stopped at a local rice processing facility and watched as they used large broom-like implements to spread the rice out to dry in the hot sun. We bought a 50 pound bag of rice there and took it home to share with the family.

Travel in just about any direction in Loja province and you will find yourself climbing up to cool, windy ridge-tops and descending into warm valleys. Around every turn there are an abundance of small "corners", each one with its own distinct character.