Lolita Offers Delicious Mexican Fair to the Gringos of Philadelphia

Vladimir Nabokov's scandalous novel Lolita shocked the world with its innovative style and controversial subject. The protagonist, the tragically named Humbert Humbert, becomes sexually obsessed with a pubescent lass. True to its name, the Philadelphia eatery Lolita is sultry and sensual with a daring, might I say risque, menu. This nymphette begs to be violated.

Accenting the open-air kitchen are warm walls of black contrasted by exposed brick. Generally busy, the pleasant sound of laugher and the enticing aroma of comida greet you upon entrance. But with easy access seating, you';ll have no problemo getting to and from your comforable table and chairs.

The nightly specials and appetizers are refreshingly unique and original. On our foray, we chose an appetizer of guacamole con totopos mixtos ($8). The fresh guacamole was scooped and consumed quickly with the chips of Malaga de coco. A more daring choice was the pulpo a la plancha con ajo, tomatillos y mango ($10). This sauteed octopus was brazenly garlicy, but relaxed with a zesty tomatillo. Seabeast has never been a normal pick of mine, but Lolita's coy sale made it impossible to refuse. Naughty girl!

While feasting, our coquettish waiter quickly combined our brought-in tequila with Lolita's own margarita mix. A BYOB establishment, the randy Lolita encourages her guests to bring tequila to mix with their own selections of seasonal margarita mixtures (ranging from $10-12). Philadelphians love there BYOBs (an acronym, Bring Your Own Booze). We opted for the orange flavor, alternating between glasses of sugar and salt. The mixture was absolutely smashing, worthy of Senior Jose Cuervo himself!

Before we can say "¡Arriba! ¡Arriba! ¡Ãndale! Andale!", our entrees descended to our table. Mi amigo had orderd the borrega, borrega ($24); a perfectly grilled canela-ginger lamb loin. Delicioso, a firm reminder of why we are not vegatarians. Nearly as sinful was my own enchiladas ($18). Salsa verde and chipotle marinated shrimp were smothered in a steaming mixture of cheeses. Portions were perfectly sized for the watchful waist line, even though I pouted when my meal was finished. Fabuloso!

After licking the plate clean, we downed our crumbs and salsa with another pitcher of margaritas. (If you can't make the run for the border, these are certianly the best margaritas in Philadelphia.) This time a more traditional concoction, but the salty delight made our thoughts warm and fluffy. With disregard to waistelines, we ordered postres.

My indulgence was a bitersweet chocolate flourless cake, ladled with rum caramel. The sweet transcended the bitter, and I must confess to hording this delicacy all to myself. Regardless, I demanded a taste of the ginger/vanilla infused creme brulee with green mango and sweet sugar top (all desserts only $7). A fork fight of epic proportion ensued, but the battle led to my simply smashing victory. Both deserts were illogically incredible!

Afterwards, I could understand old Humbert Humbert's quandary. Lolita was just too scrumptious to avoid. Her charms had worn my resolve and her wears had won me over. From the decor, to the service, to the fabulous food, I'd rather go to jail than stop seeing this lass!