Mac's Acadian Seafood Shack in Saline, Michigan

It had been at least four years since my last dinner at Mac's Acadian Seafood Shack in Saline, Michigan. Mac's is the cornerstone restaurant in downtown Saline, and has been since 1996.

With so many unique restaurants to try in neighboring Ann Arbor, it's easy for past favorites to fall to the wayside. After a few years absence from the dining rotation, Mac's seemed worthy of another visit.

Mac's is accessible from a charming rear entryway. On this particular summer evening, the nearby outdoor seating area was in heavy use, complete with live acoustic guitar to serenade diners.

The restaurant itself is one of the more inviting restaurants in the Ann Arbor area. It is housed in the historic brick Murphy's Crossing building on E. Michigan Avenue. High ceilings, rustic brickwork, comfortably spaced seating, and a Cajun fishing décor make for a lively dining experience.

Once seated, a very amiable waiter took our orders. I began with the side salad, a $1.95 upgrade from coleslaw. The salad was a good start - crisp iceberg lettuce, tangy Dijon vinaigrette, and a liberal scattering of plump, dried Michigan cherries and gorgonzola.

When the salads arrived at the table, so did the bread. My dining companions and I had fond memories of the breadbaskets at Mac's. The rolls were always soft and buttery, and sprinkled lightly with poppy seeds. On this particular occasion, the rolls looked the same, but we had the misfortune of receiving a basket that was not fresh from the oven. These rolls would have been even better piping hot.

For my entrée, I ordered the "Fresh Catch" Broiled Halibut. An ovular plate arrived with the halibut, a side of potato pancakes, and a wilted green vegetable, the lone color to enhance an otherwise monochromatic meal. The fish was very moist, perhaps because it was topped with two generous pads of apricot butter.

The apricot taste was very mild, rendering the apricot flecks more decorative than flavorful; I found myself indulging more in the small cup of tartar sauce that also accompanied the dish. Moving to my side dish selection, I was disappointed with the potato pancakes. They were limp rather than crispy, as if they had been resting on a hot plate for ten minutes.

My dining companions seemed reasonably satisfied with their meals, but not excited about them. The broiled salmon and fresh asparagus earned the nod of approval from one diner. Another diner ordered the soft-shell crabs, one of the daily specials. While pleased with the generous serving - four crabs, seasoned and broiled - she described them as "tepid." She also shared my lack of enthusiasm about the potato pancakes.

The food at Mac's didn't leave me feeling transported to a fresh seaside locale; but the restaurant's sunny interior and picturesque small-town setting offset some of the downsides. A meal at Mac's will run about $20 for coleslaw and entrée, which includes one side dish. The portions are not overwhelming, but not meager, either. Save some room and visit Mickey's Dairy Twist for a finale.