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Making Connections: One Writer Discovers Italy's Devotion to Religion

Robert Nebel
A long band of golden sunshine was peaking through the night sky as my wife and I approached Rome on our nine-hour Delta flight. I will never forget it. It was a streak of a special hue that is forever etched in my consciousness. I had visions of religious imagery somehow rising out of the scene. Was I hallucinating? After all, I didn't get much sleep on the flight. I immediately reached for cold water to bring myself to a more sober state despite the fact that I didn't drink a drop of alcohol on the flight. The airline can be reassured that I didn't see an image of the Virgin Mary dancing in the clouds thus inspiring me to take groups on their flights to look for future sightings. My state of awareness was fully realized as we descended into a partly cloudy Saturday morning in Rome. Even before we touched down on Italian soil, my first vision told me in a symbolic way how religious this Southern European country is. Religion is alive and well here. Discovering this fact might be a surprise for many Americans who listen to the caterwauls of a certain media pundit who claims that Europe is secular. When it comes to Italy, the popular pundit couldn't be more wrong.

After experiencing its art in scores of museums and in its architecture, there is no escaping the religious passion that these beautiful people possess. But there is no better place to see the devotion to a higher power than in Italy's churches. I felt like a fly on the wall as I witnessed the chanting, singing, kneeling and even tears being shed under the grand domes in these massive historical structures.

I thought I would only view these scenes in photographs. In my life I never thought that I would visit Italy. With obligations, interests and bills too numerous to mention, I never had the opportunity to think about traveling overseas again, much less Italy. As I hit my 40th birthday on the heels of a dear colleague at work who passed away last year, I felt that life was too short. My colleague was an ambitious traveler who lived more in his short life than most people on this earth. So, what does one do when they are hit with an epiphany in the wake of personal tragedy? When you have a wife like mine, she listens to your emotional pain, fears, hopes, dreams and visions to surprise you with a trip to Italy. The decision couldn't have been more perfect.

I didn't "find religion" on the visit. I discovered how it connects people. The pinnacle of that dedication can be found at The Vatican. Flocks of faithful line up early here not only to learn more about their religion, but practice it as well. After touring the Gregorian Egyptian Museum, Raphael's Rooms, the Sistine Chapel and Pinacoteca, I was in awe when I arrived at the Tomb of the Popes. The foot traffic was gridlocked at one point. "It's Pope John Paul's tomb," my wife informed me. When I was able to break through the crowd, I saw people on the floor praying to the tomb. I knew this Pope had an impact on the world, but I didn't know it until I arrived at this part of The Vatican. As I clicked my digital camera at the tomb along with others, I was thinking about how one human being even after death, impacts perhaps millions around the globe. That is a connection. I was never personally impacted by the Pope, but I always had a great deal of respect for his sense of decorum and generosity. He was an original Pope who stood up to Communism and apologized for one of his predecessors who many feel didn't do enough to stare down Adolph Hitler. Even if one disagreed with Pope John Paul II's views, at least they were consistent as he was pro-life and anti-war. As I made my way through the throngs who looked like they weren't going to move from this area anytime soon, I thought to myself: How will the current Pope follow this act?

After Rome we jumped a Eurostar train to Florence and Venice. A bit touristy yet more mellow than Rome, Florence and Venice made me feel closer to the Italian people. Every church welcomes visitors with open arms whether one intends to participate or not. The most amazing part of my Italy experience was when we strolled the walkways and bridges of Giudecca Island in Venice. It was a Sunday morning and we were able to buy bottles of wine. Just a few steps from where we made our purchase, there was a beautiful open church service in progress.

We were greeted with the sounds of bells throughout most of our short stay in Venice. Those bells brought me back to the churches of my youth in the Midwest where we had our own Little Italy. Indeed, I heard the sounds coming from those churches, but I never went into any of them. Now I know.

And it is not only religion that impressed me about Italy. Family is huge here. As my wife and I dined in Rome's family-run restaurants, we saw large families gathered at 8 p.m. talking, laughing and sharing life over bowls of fresh pasta and fine wine. Again, another connection. Yes, life is short. The Italians taught me how to live it.

I never saw that band of sunshine that I was searching for on my return flight home, but I know that I will look at future approaching sunrises a bit differently now.

The trip inspired me to hold an Italian wine and cheese party to celebrate the trip. I felt that this type of gathering not only makes connections with friends and family, but is a good replacement for a 40th birthday celebration. Who needs to be reminded of how much I've aged? I'll save that for my 50th.

Published by Robert Nebel

I am an Atlanta-based freelance writer/editor/video producer who has appeared in several newspapers and magazines. My work is viewable at: http://bobnebel.tripod.com. I'm also the editor of Men's Traveler on...  View profile

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