Mardis Gras

New Orleans Mississippi is nicknamed the "Crescent City" because it sits on a crescent (1/4- moon shape) bend in the Mississippi River. The birthplace of jazz music, the city is famous for its multi-cultural flavor; a mix of Spanish, French, African-American, and early American Southerners.

After Hurricane Katrina decimated the city in 2005, approx. 40% of the city's residents never returned. Still, Mardis Gras is perhaps what the city is still most known for.

Mardis Gras had its beginnings in ancient European pagan religions and then Christianity but the American Mardis Gras is a distinctly New Orleans evolved creation (though it was first celebrated in America around 1703 in what is now Mobile). Mardis Gras celebrations began in New Orleans during the first half of the 18^th century but it wasn't until the 19^th century that it really came into full swing.

Mardis Gras means "Fat Tuesday" but in the minds of most people it's the entire ten day (or two weeks) celebration. In fact, "Carnival" is the celebration that precedes Lent and Mardis Gras is the last day of Carnival which is the day before Ash Wednesday. That's why Mardis Gras is celebrated at a different time each year. It's also referred to as "Pancake Tuesday" and "Shrove (confess) Tuesday."

By the late 1830s Mardis Gras was celebrated with street processions of masked people (maskers) on foot, in carriages and atop horses. Newspapers had begun to announce Mardi gras events in advance; events such as the parade and elegant balls.

By 1857 New Orleans was considered by some people to be "unquestionably the most un-American city" in the country. Why? It was said the French and Spanish population of the city dominated the "moral tone" of New Orleans. The theaters of New Orleans were open on Sundays and it was the only city in America that celebrated Mardi gras. One Newspaper reported that Mardis Gras was a "jolly, happy carnival in which unrestrained mirth and joy abounded."

Because of the Civil War, New Orleans didn't celebrate Mardis Gras during the years 1862-1865. With the war over, the carnival was reinstated in 1866.

Every Mardis Gras is given an unofficial theme or themes. In 1868 its theme was the human senses; touch, taste, see, etc. and in 1870 it was "the history of Louisiana."

However, the big date in Mardis Gras history is 1872. It was that year that "Rex" the king of Mardis Gras made his first appearance. By that time numerous Mardis Gras organizations, called Krewes, had been formed but the four main ones are Rex, Comus, Momus and Proteus.

Along with king Rex came a large group of maskers who represented Rex's court and another Mardis Gras first, "Boeuf Gras," a large white bull that represented the "meat to which the city was saying farewell" (no meat on Ash Wednesday, thus Fat Tuesday is a day of feasting).

Rex declared eight edicts that were to be obeyed during Mardis Gras. One of the edicts abolished the disciplining of children during carnival days.

It was also in 1872 that the familiar Mardi gras colors were introduced; purple, green and gold. A Mardis Gras flag and song were created and in 1872 the manufacture of the parade floats was moved from France to Louisiana.

In 1873 Mardis Gras paid tribute to Darwin's Theory of Evolution by parading European made floats which represented creatures of the evolutionary chain from the "sponge to the ape."

Then in 1875 Mardis Gras was declared a public holiday in the state. It remains so to this day.

In 1882 Mark Twain wrote "Mardi-Gras is of course a relic of the French and Spanish occupation; but I judge that the religious feature has been pretty well knocked out of it now."

It's true. Some people attend Mardis Gras for some of the lewdness found in it. Bourbon Street in particular is the center of behavior most people wouldn't want their children subjected to. Bourbon Street is the strip joint area of the French Quarter. There is some open nudity and a lot of drunkenness. There are even inebriated people dancing around a golden calf while drums are beat-reminiscent of the Moses story.

New Orleans during Mardis Gras has become to some people, particularly college aged, and a place to go and let loose all inhibitions. However, although there is some tolerance, such things as flashing of a woman's breasts for beads is not "official" Mardis Gras sanctioned behavior. Women who do it can be arrested if caught doing it off Bourbon Street. And just as in any city at any time, drunken rowdies who get out of control are quickly subdued by police.

Any holiday or festival can be what a person chooses to make of it. A faithful Catholic can observe Mardis Gras as a celebration of Jesus Christ. Kids can have fun at the parade. Folks can enjoy the markets and restaurants. A family can savor a King Cake and designate the baby figure inside the cake (large cinnamon roll) as Jesus.

For the other people who go to Mardis Gras; the ones who go for the wild "experience" it's just another way to fill time in a society that's struggling to find what's really precious in life.

Sources:

The Author lived near New Orleans for a short period of time
New York Times Archives
Mark Twain: Life on the Mississippi
Felix J. Koch "Mardi Gras Days and the Mardis Gras City" Overland Monthly 1907
Henry Rightor: Standard history of New Orleans, Louisiana
Mardisgras.com