Mud Dock Cafe, Bristol

Mud Dock Café The Grove, Bristol, England

The rejuvenated sheds around the waterfront are emblematic of the West Country's capital, and also what houses several of its most distinctive eateries. The Mud Dock is of the early harbourside renaissance. Its Café is all the quirkier for being above a bike shop - linked to the business.

The ingredients are here for a great experience: the open terrace overlooking the water, the alternatively khaki and orange walls; the open roof, with bikes, chairs and a swordfish suspended from it; and the round window (like the kid's TV programme Playschool) onto the finest medieval parish church in England. The chairs are of twisted metal, with cascading melted candles on the tables. It has an arty, established feel. The surroundings and ambiance are as important to me as the food, and I am usually wooed to try a restaurant by how it looks. Thus far, I was certainly drawn in.

My first gripe is that one has to clamber up the metal stairs (not easy for those with push or wheelchairs and luggage) and enter the 1st floor restaurant to view the menu. It has a £6.95 meal deal for a drink and main course 5-7pm on weekdays, but there are only 3 dishes to chose from, one vegetarian; and these are not known until the day. As I prebooked for my birthday, I was forced to take a risk.

The veggies in my group didn't fancy the rather odd mixture of misspelt 'poched egg and vegetable ratatouie'. That meant I chose from the usual menu - despite my attempt at frugality. The mushroom risotto (leaping over £4 to £9.95 to have this starter as a main) was very pleasant but not unforgettably so; though it's a strange choice to have on the lightbite menu and not a main anyway. There are currently 10 items on the main course main menu, two of which (penne pasta and aubergine/butternut lasagne) are vegetarian; otherwise it's steaks and burger options. There's only four deserts, which we didn't sample. They also offer a few sandwiches during the day. The sides of chunky chips are quite pricey and on a previous occasion, the waiter hesitated over whether they would let me have just a side of potato wedges for a snack lunch when the restaurant was empty - he had to ask the chef if he minded?! The meal deal had few drinking options, although the wine list is quite long. Sadly, the tapas options that I enjoyed in years previously have gone.

The staff were neither rude nor outstanding in their service. Overall, I was satisfied but not amazed. But unlike Severnshed next door, at least they didn't charge us for the water.