Multiply Plants in Midsummer

There are many reasons for starting new plants: Perhaps an existing plant is too large and we want a new one for another location; or the plant may have been in the family for many years and starts are wanted by children or other relatives. Another common reason is to develop more favorite plants economically to expand our landscape planting. Whatever the reason, home propagation can be useful and interesting if we are willing to wait a few extra years for the plants to develop. However, for quick results we should purchase started plants from a reputable nurseryman or garden center.

The propagation technique very useful to the home gardener is called layering. It is particularly suitable when only one or two plants of a given small tree or shrub are wanted. It requires no special equipment, and once done there is nothing to do other than keep the soil moist while the plant part is rooting. The main limitation to layering is the need for a low branch flexible enough so that it can be pulled down to ground level. There are several variations of layering, but the one called simple layering is most suitable for many woody plants. Plants that may be rooted with this technique include shrubs such as forsythia , euonymus, magnolia, privet, juniper, pyracantha, rose and viburnum, or woody vines such as bittersweet, wisteria or clematis.

To make a simple layer, first select abranch that may be pulled down to soil level. Establish the point where the layer is to be made, and mark where it will touch the soil. Dig up the soil at the spot where the branch is to be buried. If soil is very poor, add organic matter or remove some of the soil and replace it with good top soil. Good soil will improve the quantity and quality of roots that develop. Next, make a long, thin cut at an angle to about halfway through the branch and about 6 to 12 inches from the tip of the branch. The wood should be this year's growth that has matured.

If new growth is very short, cut as close as possible to the base of this year's growth. Dusting the open cut with arooting hormone increases chances of success. Pull the branch down into a trench about three inches deep in the improved soil. Fasten it with a wooden peg, wire wicket or heavy stone. After the branch has been held down, bend the tip upright. Be careful not to break it off during bending. If necessary, put in a small stake to hold the tip in a more upright position. When the tip is bent, the cut should open. Fill in around the layer with good topsoil.

Most garden shrubs should be rooted by the end of the summer and may be cut from the parent branch and transplanted in the spring. Hard-to-root plants such as rhododendron may take two or more years to root. If the layer has not rooted at the time it is dug, replace it and cover again. Occasionally when thereis no rooting, the wound may have healed over. If this happens, it should be recut as for a new layer.

Accessible Gardening: Tips & Techniques by Joan Woy.