My Worst Travel Experience

When the bus broke down, we didn't give it much thought. Near the end of a two-month trip across Senegal, West Africa, this certainly wasn't the first time. My husband and I obediently filed off the bus and waited under the scant shade of a shrubby tree. The driver and his assistant scurried about, looking at the engine, crawling under the bus, fiddling with things. They called my husband over hoping he might be able to read the German repair manual.

As afternoon faded to dusk, we thought we were saved when another little bus came by and offered us a ride to Kaolack. We had been there before and hoped to never see that place again, but at this point we'd take what we could get. Kaolack is near the coast, and is surrounded by tidal flats that are covered in water part of the day and garbage the rest.

For a reason we were never able to figure out, our driver tried for a shortcut across the flats as night fell. The bus shimmied and groaned, and finally slid to a stop, up to its axles in sandy mud. It wasn't until they got out to swear and kick the tires that we noticed our drivers were about 14.

It was fully dark by now. The few other passengers took off walking, but we were worried it might be dangerous for us as obvious tourists. One of the drivers decided to go into town, we assumed for help. We waited patiently for our rescue.

About two hours later the driver returned with sandwiches, one for himself and one for his friend. This was the first and only time on our trip that an African had not offered us help when we needed it. We ate the pitiful snacks we could dig out of our packs and curled up on the sweaty seats. It was an indescribably lonely feeling, being stranded in such a place with no idea whether or not we were safe, and unable to communicate with the only other people for miles. At first light, we grabbed our packs and started the hour walk to town, with not another human being in sight. That may be the worst night's sleep I've ever gotten. We treated ourselves to a nice hotel room and spent the evening reviling our bus drivers.

I would hate to think of a story like this discouraging you from visiting West Africa. The experience was largely wonderful. Just be aware that transportation breakdowns are always a possibility. Though you can't avoid them entirely, you can be somewhat prepared. Make sure you always have some food and water with you. You could easily be waiting for several hours along a shadeless highway. Travel with a blanket. It gets surprisingly chilly at night, and an unexpected night under the stars can be fun if you're warm enough.

Probably the best way to prepare is to learn as much French as you can. Good communication can get you out of many a scrape, along with allowing you to meet some wonderful people!