Natural Animal Fibers: Alpaca, Camel, Llama and Vicuna

"To raise awareness of natural fibres, to promote efficiency and sustainability of the natural fibres, and to foster an effective international partnership among the various natural fibres industries." http://www.fao.org/es/esc/en/15/320/highlight_322.html

We get our clothing fiber from a large number of sources. Some are completely synthetic, some have been used for millennia. The llama, camel, alpaca and vicuna have been used for fiber as well as meat and, in the case of the camel and llama, pack animals and camels have been milked since they were domesticated. Nothing matches the beauty and softness of natural animal fibers for comfort. Collection of these fleeces should not harm the animals and a good steward will take excellent care of their animals. Camels, alpacas, llamas and vicunas are all one family. Camels are found in Arabia and in Asia. Alpacas, llamas and vicuna are all South American animals. All have been used to produce fiber for clothing and other purposes for centuries, or longer. The softer wool from each of these is more valuable and more desirable. In general, the diameter of the individual hairs determines the softness.

Bactrian camels from Asia produce two types of hair, coarser, outer hairs and downy undercoat hair. The coarsest hairs are 25 to 00 microns or more in diameter, while the down hair can be 17 to 21 microns. The smaller the diameter the softer the hair and any final product made from it. The downy camel hairs are spun and woven into fine quality garments, usually outer wear. The best garment-quality camel hair is 100% virgin or virgin camel hair mixed with wool. The coarser hair is used for insulation and felt to make yurts and tents.

Alpaca wool is one of the trendy fibers marketed in upscale markets. Adult alpaca fiber is typically 27-38 microns while the first fleece cut from a yearling might be as fine as cashmere, 19 microns. Only 1-2% of alpaca fleece meets these rigid standard. Average alpaca wool is finer than sheep wool and will be less itchy due to smaller "scales" on the surface of the fiber. Most alpaca fiber is processed in Peru. Even the hair harvested from American-owned alpacas is often shipped to Peru for processing as there is little processing capability in the US.

Llama hair is not ordinarily used for clothing as it is coarser than the others. Llama hair is used for coarser fabrics, ropes and felt for tents. I've seen some delightful primitive art made with pieced llama fur-on leather. The US market for llama wool is virtually non-existent.

The softest camelid fleece comes from the elusive vicuna. Imports of this fiber have been prohibited to the US to reduce poaching of the wild vicuna in the Andes. The ban on imports has been partially lifted. Only vicuna fiber that is verified to come from live animals can be imported. Typically vicuna fiber sells for $200-300/oz with an average of 1/4 lb being harvested from each animal. Don't expect this fiber to get cheaper, vicuna do not breed in captivity.

Camelid wools do not contain lanolin so are probably safe for those allergic to sheep's wool. It's also not as water repellent. It is soft, different from other hair and wool fabrics. Unlike synthetics, natural fibers do not melt or emit noxious fumes when burnt. The wide variety of applications, the low environmental impact and a widening world view will bring an expansion in the markets for these products. Indigenous peoples benefit greatly. As we wear our natural fiber garments, they are bringing much needed income into their communities.

http://www.cashmere.org/cm/facts.php

http://aic.ucdavis.edu/research1/alpaca_RAE.pdf

http://www.csmonitor.com/2002/0821/p07s02-woam.html

http://www.alphatops.com/