New Coffee Bar in Phoenix Offers Hits and Misses

Dolce Espresso Video Coffee Bar at 1025 E. Camelback has been open about three months. Most locals overlooked it until the owners recently changed its sign, which seems to draw more people in. It's a nice space with several video monitors. That's part of Dolce's schtick: Its owners have decided to play music videos for their customers. Lightweight pop and dance music seems to be their preference. If you're not into that sort of thing, or if you're a reader/student/worker, you might not like it.

On weekdays, they're open from 5 a.m. to midnight on weekdays, and they stay open the entire weekend. Besides the coffee, they also do a lot of quick-hit sorts of foods, plus desserts. Good for those of you who like to go clubbing. And with the videos, you might feel like you haven't left the clubs.

Coffee Verdict - Pretty Meh

I really don't think Dolce is really aiming for the hard-core coffee drinkers. My cappuccino provides evidence for the prosecution: It was hotter than a Russian nuclear reactor, and the microfoam was a sad, overly bubbled sight that looked way too soapy for its own good. I read 20 pages of Neil Gaiman's excellent novel, American Gods, before I could tolerate a full sip, temperature wise. It took at least another 10 pages before it was about the right temperature. It was also at least 12 ounces, served in a tall paper cup. Not the optimum cap-drinking implement, obviously.

On the happy side of the ledger, it didn't taste bad at all. It was a decent roast, and it didn't have a bitter edge to it. I expected far worse when I detected the heat it was throwing off - which I'm sure even the extra-terrestrials living in the Plaides star cluster detected with their instruments. An Americano was just as hot, and seemed like the ratio of water to espresso was considerably off. Not horrible, but certainly not on par with the big guys around town.

I'm willing to give these guys a visit for a late-night dessert or hot chocolate. If I see some signs that they're stepping up the barista skills, I'll even try another espresso drink. I think it's a nice place - not necessarily my vibe being a pop music-phobe and a cappuccino lover. But I can see some people might dig the place, and I'm always rooting for local businesses. They certainly have some stuff to address for the serious coffee drinker, and I'd be lying if I said otherwise. It might be just the right place for some people.