New Orleans' French Quarter

The French Quarter of New Orleans, known also as the Vieux Carre or "Old Square", was the first part of New Orleans to be settled when the town was founded in 1718. Because of fires which burned the area to the ground in the late 18^th Century, most of the buildings one sees on a visit to the French Quarter were built by the Spanish who at the time ruled the city and are, therefore, in the Spanish colonial style.

The French Quarter is usually defined as the area of New Orleans bounded on the west by Canal Street, the east by Esplanade Avenue, the north by Rampart Street, and south by the Mississippi River. The French Quarter is, post Katrina, the beating heart of a wounded city.

The most famous (or infamous part) of the French Quarter is Bourbon Street. Bourbon Street is one long avenue lined with twenty four hour bars, cafes, and other, perhaps more dubious establishments. The garish neon signs spoiling the effect that the two hundred plus year old buildings, with their wrought iron balconies and long, shaded galleries, supported by columns, and colorful walls would otherwise have. Blaring music (and not all of it jazz) assaults the ears. But if sin and debauchery is your goal, Bourbon Street is where you need to be.

To get a more gentle experience of the New Orleans French Quarter, go one block south to Royal Street with its antique shops and art galleries. One can take a leisurely walk down the Rue Royal, stopping by to window shop, or else taking in the unique architecture.

A rather eclectic place can be found on St. Peter, known as Reverend Zombie's Voodoo Shop. While many cast aspersions on the shop's "authenticity" (whatever that means), it's weird enough to be worth a look. One enters the dark, dank store to be confronted with grotesque African idols and a voodoo altar where one can make monetary offerings. Among the goods sold are dolls and candles and similar knick knacks. There is a shelf filled with books on subjects ranging from voodoo and wiccan practices to Christian mysticism.

The French Quarter of New Orleans is best known for its fine eating, ranging from high end, coat and tie dining at Antoine's or Brennan's, to coffee and sugar drenched beignets at Café du Monde. This writer's personal favorite was Emeril's NOLA, located on St. Louis, where he had roast duck and a soup that was described as a garlic/parmesan brisque.

If the French Quarter is the heart of New Orleans, Jackson Square is the heart of the French Quarter. Located between Decatur and the river, Jackson Square features an equestrian statue of one General Andrew Jackson who saved the city from British assault on a battle field just seven miles away. Jackson Square is the haunt of street musicians, tarot card readers, and other independent entrepreneurs.

Facing Jackson Square in St. Louis Cathedral, said to be the oldest in North America. Flanking the Cathedral is the Cabildo, the old city hall, now a museum, where the Louisiana Purchase was signed, and the Presbytère, once a residence for Roman Catholic priests, now also a museum.

The stories of post Katrina chaos are true, as crime as soared in New Orleans. But the French Quarter of New Orleans is relatively safe and well patrolled by the local police. The police have their priorities, of course. People who are visibly drunk and woman who are obviously plying a certain trade are usually left unmolested. Not so if one gets behind the wheel in a state of drunkenness, however, so be warned.