New York City's STK: More Meat Market Than Meat Palace

STK likes to think of itself as the American steakhouse redefined; a restaurant offering the finest in carnivorous cuisine while endeavoring to create an environment best suited for the New York elite, where top models and young entrepreneurs alike can bask in the glory of being hip and beautiful. STK achieves the latter exceptionally well combining the sexiness of a downtown lounge with the audaciousness of a Fashion Week runway. Unfortunately, STK forgets its main purpose; it is a restaurant not the catwalk.

To accentuate the positive STK is a visual delight with lighting and design schemes to make any patron feel like a celebrity. The main dining room seats up to 200. Private dining suites are located upstairs and are named for famous burlesque stars. I had preconceived notions of what the staff would be like after hearing numerous complaints about server and hostess rudeness but I did not experience anything resembling such behavior. The staff was as friendly as they were beautiful. Appropriate for its Meat Packing District location, STK is a meat market. Guys and gals come to flirt and be flirted with while sipping pricey but tasty martinis.

Still, a restaurant can not survive on its looks alone. In fairness, the appetizer creations of Executive Chef Todd Mark Miller are stellar. The signature offering, shrimp rice krispies, are a delicious blend of shrimp and cilantro molded to remind one of the classic treat. It is a light hearted dish at a restaurant that takes itself incredibly seriously. For my money, the meat and potato soup surpasses the shrimp rice krispies. The soup could be a stand alone meal, a hearty appetizer with braised beef that melts in your mouth. The starter courses lead you to believe that the entrees are going to be exemplary, however, they fall flat.

Other restaurants offer ten ounce portions of filet mignon but I never feel cheated. At STK, the steaks are miniscule, lacking in tenderness and natural flavor. The various sauces accompanying the meat fail to enhance taste acting as an unwelcome additive. The sides are likewise underwhelming. Also, the wine list was vast but disappointing.

STK is an interesting entertainment experience, trendy and aesthetically impressive. Yet to survive in the famous New York City restaurant business, it will take much more than aesthetics to last among the big boys in the steak business.