Night Train to Paris

When someone asks me if I believe in angels, my mind suddenly goes back to 1982 and a stranger I met on a night train northbound to Paris. I was sitting on the floor in the corridor of a train trying to read a French comic book. The train had just left Marseilles. I was tired and didn't like the idea that there was no seating left. It was going to be a long night on the hard floor with only my backpack for a pillow. Suddenly there was tap on my shoulder. "Mademoiselle, you ah going to 'ave to get up and find a seat. You cannot stay 'ere." said the conductor.

In broken French, I proceeded to tell him there were no were no seats. The conductor informed me, however, that it was against the rules for passengers to block the train corridors. What was I supposed to do on a moving train? Jump?? Our voices raised as we argued over the matter. People began to stare when suddenly someone approached us to ask what was the problem. His suit and briefcase indicated he was a businessman of some sort. He was middle aged with dark hair and a tired expression on his face. The two men spoke for a few minutes while I anxiously tried to understand what they were saying. Then I heard the businessman ask the conductor in English, "How much does a couchette cost?" I was surprised by the question. "Couchette? No, no, you don't understand! I cannot rent a couchette! No francs! I haven't enough for a couchette!" I interjected. I began to worry for my safety. The businessman nodded to me reassuringly. "It will be all right, mademoiselle," he said.

After hearing the cost, the businessman calmly pulled out his wallet and proceeded to pay the conductor then said,"Give the lady and myself two couchettes." I couldn't believe this was happening to me. Once again, in my broken French I began to argue with the two men. The conductor, ignoring my protests, promptly lead us down of the corridor. I held my breath as I followed him, feeling like a death row prisoner going to the electric chair. The businessman followed behind me. My thoughts began to race. Think, Roni! THINK! There wasn't any room to run and even if I did, where would I hide?? The conductor opened a compartment door and showed us in. I held my breath and carried my backpack in front of me like it was a protective shield. I looked inside the compartment, fearing the worst. I didn't know who this man was but I was about to spend the night with him and no one seemed to care. I was mortified just wondering what this man was going to want from me in payment for the room.

As I peered into the darkness of the compartment, I noticed there were other people inside. The light from the window was bright enough for me to see that there were 6 berths (or couchettes) in that compartment. Each couchette was nothing more than a mattress covered in vinyl. Each had a blanket and pillow but no sheets. The stranger that paid for my couchette, pointed at an empty one then proceeded to climb onto another just above mine. My heart began to slow down as I realized I wasn't going to be left alone with this man.

Fully clothed, I laid down and placed my backpack against the wall of my couchette. I looked up at the couchette above me and listened. I waited for a hand to reach out to hurt me in some way. When the minutes passed and all I heard were the sounds of the people sleeping around me, I began to relax and said a prayer of thanks quietly to myself. A few tears fell, over my heartfelt relief that this man had meant me no harm. On the contrary, he did me a kindness I never expected. Once I heard him sleeping above me, I turned over and allowed myself to finally get some sleep.

I awoke the next morning to a conductor announcing our arrival to the "City of Lights." Groggy passengers got up and gathered their belongings. When the train reached the station we all slowly disembarked onto the platforms. The businessman walked behind me until we got out to the main lobby. I looked at him and smiled. Even though I thanked him several times, I wanted to pay him back also. After all, I wasn't destitute. I just didn't have any extra French money to spend. Offers of coffee or maybe a lite breakfast were refused. The businessman smiled at me as we walked and explained that he was in a hurry. In fact, he barely slowed down to wish me a pleasant and safe journey home. Obstinately, I insisted on paying and reached for my checkbook. That was my mistake. The moment I took my eyes off of him to get my checkbook out of my bag, he left me. The entrance to the station was just ahead and so I ran quickly to catch up with him.

I looked at the taxis and buses pulling away from the station but it was no use. He was gone. Sadly, I made my way back to the station to catch my next train. The rest of the trip was uneventful, but never in my life will I ever forget what this kind man did for me. So now when someone asks me if I believe in angels, I remember this man and many other "earthly angels" who went out of their way to help me and answer, "Yes. Yes, I do. I have met many in my lifetime. And I am sure I am bound to meet more. Thank God, the world is full of them."