Nightlife in Lecce, Italy

As many readers may have noticed, I visit and write about the city of Lecce quite often! And each time I go I discover something new: a back alley leads to a discreet courtyard or piazzetta (small piazza), one boutique or café bar may close, but another more interesting one opens in the same location. All the while, Lecce's Baroque architecture frames the entire city. In fact half the time I expect to turn a corner and see some type of nobility clip-clopping by on a horse.

The city of Lecce is also home to the University of Lecce, and the Lecce Academy of Art. And as you can imagine, where there are hundreds and hundreds of students, there has to be a burgeoning nightlife. At least that's the hope! What I've learned is that Lecce has a unique nightlife all its own. Yes, there are nightclubs sprinkled about and more than a few restaurants and trattoria's. But this is a college town, and like the best of them, Lecce's nightlife is informal, casual and thoroughly on-the-go.

So allow me to break this down. Nightlife in Lecce first and foremost is an idea. A concept. Lecce's numerous open-air venues….the main Piazza Di St. Oronzo, the Porta di Napoli, and Porta Rudyia are all gathering places for mingling. Like so many of the big Italian cities, Rome. Bologna, and Milan come to mind. A night out on the town really is just that - - an evening stroll with the sights and sounds to keep you company. A brief stop for a café….another for a drink…eventually a sit-down for a piazza or a light meal. If there's any serious socializing to be done, don't even think about it before midnight. Until then enjoy the sights. When the sun goes down, the city lights come up…casting a unique glow on the "pietra-leccese" facades of the buildings and churches that are so numerous in Lecce's "Centro Storico".

Piazza Sant'Oronzo is the main conduit for young and old alike. The location of the Lecce Amphitheatre (check out the story on-line), it's a good location to meet up with friends and begin a stroll through Lecce's Centro Storico. You'll notice a 2nd-century A.D. Roman column erected in the center of the piazza with the Saint Oronzo; the patron saint of Lecce standing on top. This used to be one of the twin columns in the near-by city of Brindisi (again, check the story on Associated Content!) that marked the end of the Appian Way. Legend has it the citizens of Lecce stole the column, but the townsfolk of Brindisi eventually recovered the base of their cherished "Colonna Romana" (Roman Column). In fact if you travel to Brindisi you'll see one and a quarter columns overlooking the port.

At the southern side of the piazza are the remains of Lecce's Roman amphitheater. Beautifully lit up at night, the many stone benches encircling the amphitheatre make a rest stop for couples to cuddle. If you walk straight ahead with the Roman Column to your back, you'll soon arrive on Via Umberto I. take a right and you'll come face to face with the Basilica di Santa Croce (tel. 0832-241957). To give you an idea of the complexity of this work-in-progress, this impressive display of Leccese Baroque architecture took almost 1 1/2 centuries to complete! Architect Gabriele Riccardo began work in the mid-15th century; but the final touches weren't added until the late 1600's. Extensive cleaning and restoration work now give the church a pristine look that reveals every minute detail of its ornate decor. Guardian angels, grotesque demons, and a variety of flora and fauna. Steady yourself and lean back - there's a lot to see. Check it out during the daytime - its open daily from 7am to 12:30pm and 4 to 7pm. Admission is free.

Our evening stroll is just getting started. Down Via Vittorio Emanuele sits the Duomo, Piazza del Duomo (tel. 0832-308557), stands in a closed square. The building, which has two façades, was reconstructed in the mid-1600's. To the left of the Duomo, the campanile towers over 200 above the piazza. The cathedral is open daily from 7:30am to 12:30pm and 4 to 7pm, and admission is free.

If you exit the Piazza del Duomo, take a right and continue down Corso Garibaldi, you'll run into a nice mix of espresso and wine bars, gelatoria's and a few restaurants. Here are a few factoids for you: Lecce has over 40 pubs, 70 pizzerias and 60 restaurants. Somewhere in the middle of all that are memories in the making. At the very least some good conversation and a bottle of wine. Most locals have outdoor seating. Well, it's getting late and you may want a bite to eat. Everyone has their favorites. Here are a few of mine:

Trattoria Casareccia (Via Colonnello Costadura, 19, Tel. 0832-24 51 78, Closed Sunday evenings and Mondays). A hospitable trattoria, with a food selection representing the typical cuisine of Salento. A wide range of vegetable appetizers. A great place to meet with friends and gear up for the night ahead. Moving right along, I tre Moschettieri (Via Paisiello,9/a,Tel. 0832-30 84 84, Closed: Sundays).in the very center of the Centro Storico, famous for it's open air garden. Seasonal menu and good prices. And my personal favorite - the Trattoria di Nonna Tetti (check out review on-line for complete information!). Tell Carmelo - the owner - that Gary sent you!

By this time it should be getting closet to midnight. Time to head out. For some reason still unsolved, despite having some great nightspots in and around Lecce, the majority of students and adults head to the neighboring cities of Gallipoli and Taranto to do their clubbing. And wouldn't you know - the kids in those town head to Lecce! Well, a little cross-polination never hurt anyone. The most popular club may well be CAGLIOSTRO. (via Cairoli 25, tel. 0832301881) A relaxed hang out to listen to good music and have a cocktail hailed as the "best in Lecce". MALE (via Belvedere, tel. 338-8304451) is more a traditional discothèque. It sports two dance floors for both grunge and underground music and the other for top 10 and urban. For Latin-American and Salsa head to CANDLE. (Via Monteroni 33 - Lecce), and finally the nightclub KEPOS, (Via Manifattura Tabacchi 13 - Lecce, 0832.246175) has a little bit of everything. Cover charge ranges for 12 to 15 euro and includes a drink. Closing time ranges from 3-5am.

There are bigger cities with a crazier variety of nightlife that's for sure. But the city of Lecce has managed to carve a reputation for itself and it's nightlife for all the right reasons. Beautiful atmosphere, not to heavy on the wallet and above fun! Happy partying!