North Devon and Dartmoor England Travel Guide

In the South-West corner of England is a long finger pointing across the Atlantic, this is Cornwall and Devon. Isolated geographically, the region, none the less, has a history stretching back into the mists of time. Phoenicians traded with the tin miners of North Cornwall 3000 years ago, while Dartmoor in central Devon contains remains from the late Neolithic and early Bronze Ages. Barnstaple, or nearby Bideford (9 miles to the west), are ideal towns to stay in to savor the delights of the surrounding area. The rail journey, from Paddington Station, London is three and a half hours with 5 trains a day for the remarkable fare of $38. Less than 200 miles distance, as long as you can deal with driving on the left, a leisurely drive is an excellent alternative. A well-planned route would take you past such sights as Stonehenge and Blenheim Palace, birthplace of Winston Churchill.

Barnstaple is a small town of just over 30,000 people, having swallowed several local villages. Traditionally the market town of the region it claims to be the oldest borough in England. The name derives from the its position as a licensed 'staple port' in the Middle Ages, meaning that it could export one of the staple commodities, in this case wool; while the Barn prefix comes from the Roman Barum. At the time of the Domesday Book in 1086, the first complete English census and survey, it was so important that it had it's own mint. Built at the lowest fordable place on the River Taw it made an excellent port. It's status as a market town continues today. Pannier Market, a glass roof on iron pillars, is longer than a football field. Built in 1855 it is still enormously popular; situated on Butcher's Row across from a row of 10 shops (only two are butchers) with pilasters of Bath stone.

Bideford, on the River Torridge, is another delightful, historic town. The Long Bridge, 24 spans, was built in the 13^th century and in Elizabethan times the port was the third busiest in England, primarily due to its western position. Sir Walter Raleigh shipped tobacco there, although he was not the first, Columbus had already introduced it to Europe. In 1588 the Spanish Armada set sail, a vast flotilla from the greatest sea-faring nation of that time, it's aim was to defeat Britain. A strong wind blew the fleet up the North Sea, watched with grave trepidation by the people on shore. North of Scotland the Armada was destroyed by a violent storm and the survivors limped down the west coast, some to be driven ashore at Bideford. The marooned mariners intermingled with locals and today many from Bideford claim Spanish heritage. Charles Kingsley wrote 'Westward Ho!' here, probably looking out across the Atlantic. So popular did the book become that a seaside village, with wonderful sands, was built with the same name, the only place in England to have an exclamation point after it's name!

To the south is Dartmoor, a windswept, seemingly desolate, granite upland. It covers nearly 400 square miles with numerous hills, known as tors, the highest being 2,037 feet. Made famous by Conan Doyle in 'The Hound of the Baskervilles' Sherlock Holmes paints an evocative picture of gloom and danger. Walking across the moor is akin to stepping into pre-history or an alien landscape (much of 'The Hitchhikers Guide to the Galaxy' was filmed here). Settled at a time when the climate was warmer and trees covered the moor, there are many standing stones, kistvaens (burial chambers), stone circles, cairns and rows, most from the bronze age; there are an estimated 5000 hut circles, indicating a high population. As the trees were cleared and burnt so the population disseminated and by Roman times it was largely deserted. In the Middle Ages hardy shepherds drifted back up on the moor and numerous legends, such as the headless horseman or the pack of ghostly hounds, sprang up around Jays Grave, Bowermans Nose and Childes Tomb. Tin has been mined for at least 2000 years here and again it is interesting to visit the 12^th century mines.

Further west, down the coast in Cornwall, is Tintagel where the ruins of a Saxon castle set on a rocky headland are rumored to be the seat of King Arthur. Geoffrey of Monmouth, a 12^th century historian cites the castle as Arthurs birthplace and it is the setting for Lord Tennyson's 'Idylls of the King' and 'Morte d'Arthur'

"The bare black cliff clanged round him, as he based his feet on juts of slippery crag"

Looking around it is very easy to imagine the knights threading their way along the cliff to the castle.

In 1988 the so-called Arthur Stone was discovered and dated to the 6^t century, the inscription appears to refer to Arthur and another ancestor, Coel Hen (Old King Cole of nursery rhyme fame). The scenery along this coast is fabulous, jagged cliffs, stacks and arches with often a cobbled footpath leading to a small fishing village inaccessible to cars.

Both Barnstaple and Bideford are tourist destinations and have a plethora of good hotels such as the Imperial in Barnstaple or Yeoldon House Hotel, with breathtaking views, in Bideford. If you are on a budget then a Bed and Breakfast will suit you fine. Devon is dairy country so make sure you have the local cream tea time with Devon clotted cream, jam and scones. In Cornwall you should stop by a pub and try a Cornish Pasty with a mug of mead; this is a honey based brew but be warned it is akin to wine so do not knock back a quick pint and expect to keep standing.

Sources : Ralls-MacLeod, Karen & Robertson, Ian. (2003). The Quest for the Celtic Key. Luath Press. ISBN 1-84282-031-1
"Dartmoor Commons" (pdf). Dartmoor National Park Authority
Barnstaple History Website