Note on the Welt Pocket

What is the welt pocket and how is it used in tailoring? When making pockets, one of the main facts is that there isn't just a pocket line ; the pocket line can be decorated and you can say that the welt lips on either side of the pocket line are a form of decoration of the pocket line itself.

There is a definition of the welt pocket in the link below and one of the more interesting elements of the definition is the fact that for men's jackets, the welt pocket is located on the chest area i.e. used as a breast pocket. The exact location of this pocket in the men's breast/chest area is important. In a typical definition of a wel pocket, it is also described as an inset pocket.

The breast area is obviously a known area but you can take it as the area inside of the mid armhole point. Then a suitable pocket line ,whether slightly slanted or straight, might be elegant and appropriate. When drafting the pocket and making it up, interfacing is important. Interfacing is a stabiliser material. The pocket area, without interfacing, could possible cause some form of tension and instability in the overall construction of the garment. Interfacings is another area that is important in tailoring and the correct choice of interfacing which depends of course on the main fabric and the lining fabric is important.

Some guides on making a welt pocket state that the interfacing should be cut 2 inches longer than the pocket line and the width should be approximately 2 inches. It helps, of course, to mark the pocket line on the interfacing. Then place this interfacing piece on the inside of the pocket area, using the pocket line as the centre line. Interfacing can be fused or sewn on depending on the type of interfacing. Then you have your welt lips. This article is of course describing a basic form of the welt pocket.

The welt lips can be approximately 1 inch in width each and the same length as the interfacing i.e. 2 inches longer than the pocket line. Place these welt lips ; pieces of fabric on the pocket line, one on the bottom and one on the top of the line. Then stitch the lips to the underlying fabric or garment. Sew inside approximately 2-3/8" but leave an inch free at the end. The purpose of this will be seen later when the welts are turned inside and the 'pocket' has to be sewn down so that structure and shape is given.

Remember that in all this, there is a pocket line with a specific length ; the welt lips are stitched on either side of the line. Now open up the pocket line i.e. cut it open. You can start from the centre and cut outwards. You are cutting through fabric thus be careful as you can only cut once. Then at the ends of the line, it is always advised to cut to a v shape. The purpose of this is unclear but it may help in giving strength and durability to the pocket.

You have the pocket line open and the welt lips are ready to be neatly pushed inside. Thus push the lips inside over the seam allowances. On the inside then, the pocket line is the central line and there are the welts on either side but you see the 1 inch sections at the end. They need to be sewn down eventually. Remember also that the welt lips have been turned inside but a suitable amount of the welt lip must still be visible on the outside. Remember what a welt pocket is.

Put the pocket bag on. This article unfortunately doesn't give a guide as to sewing the bag down, and then remember to sew down the triangles beneath the welt lips on the inside. If you raise the inch pieces at the end, you will see the triangles. On the outside, push the welt lips together so that the pocket line is almost invisible. A type of stitching called 'stitching in the ditch' or understitching is done. Stitch thus around the welt lips in the visible ditches/dips beween the main fabric and the welt lips.

This is a basic description of a welt pocket. It is important in tailoring but there are different forms of the welt e.g. standing welt, welt with button.

The welt is indeed important. Specific dimensions were not mentioned in this article not particular areas like interfacing and I hope to write more on this area.